Chapter 1: The First Visit

Sete: Eat, Pray (to eat), Love (to eat)

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There are few things I enjoy more than eating seafood.

I was brought up going to a fish camp on the Catawba River, just outside Charlotte, NC, where you could have all the fried fish, tiny Calabash shrimp, and hush puppies you could eat.

It was later in life that I learned fish doesn’t always have to be dipped in batter and fried in oil to be delicious.

Probably my best lessons on fish varieties, flavors and textures came from living in the Philippines during my ex’s work assignment in the 1970’s. I could devour a whole fish — head, tail, fins and all. In fact I was told I eat fish like a “Philippina”. Nothing’s left but the bones.

Discovering Sete has been like striking gold. It’s a seafood paradise. From anchovies to oysters, from sea snails to mussels, clams and shrimp. They have it all.

To find out about seafood from the Mediterranean and other regional foods, I joined a gourmet tour my Airbnb hostess, Nancy, conducts. She’s lived in Sete over 30 years, so she knows the best local foods and vendors. She’s also very socially active, so she knows what’s in vogue in this part of France.

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Here’s a glimpse of the foods we sampled on the tour and the vendors we met.

Biscuiterie Pouget

Sete
Morning stop at the Biscuiterie Pouget for Zezettes de Sete (French wine biscuits). A slightly sweet biscuit.

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Mr. Husson’s Olives and tapenade

Sete
Mr. Husson’s olives and tapenade can be found at the outside market in the center city. His popular varieties of tapenades are anchovy, garlic, tomato, and olive. Olives mixed with aioli, cheese, and other sauces are outstanding.

Lou Pastou cheeses

Sete

Lou Pastou cheeses are extraordinary. Perhaps he wears a physician’s coat because they are so special.

The house favorite is Roquefort which is truly one of the best cheeses I’ve ever eaten. In addition to the sharp and tangy Roquefort flavor, the cheese’s texture is velvety and creamy. It literally melts in your mouth.

We learned a few interesting facts on the tour about Roquefort and cheese etiquette. First, Roquefort is pronounced “rock”fort.

Second, only cheese from Roquefort can be called by that name. It’s just like calling sparkling wine “champagne” if it’s not from the Champagne district of France. It’s simply not done. Furthermore, it’s illegal.

 

Cheese etiquette is very important in France. When you are served a slice of cheese on a platter to share, never serve yourself the tip end of the slice. That’s the best part of the piece and you’ll offend the other guests.

Likewise, don’t cut a piece along the edge. That’s the worse part of the cheese slice because it has the rind, or other curing ingredients — like salt — and you’ll be disappointed.

Instead, cut several diagonal sections (start at the front edge and cut towards the center) then take one piece for yourself.

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This unusual cheese cutter displayed at the shop has an interesting history. Cutters like this were used in monasteries by monks who were discouraged from taking large slices of cheese for themselves because they were “not worthy.” The slicer is used for a particular variety of hard cheese — like Parmesan– and the cutter blade sweeps in a circle slicing a finely shaved piece of cheese.

Cheese regions of France

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Demoiselles Dupuy Restaurant

Sete
Demoiselles Dupuy Restaurant serves oysters to die for! I’ve eaten a lot of oysters in my life because I seek them out whenever I travel. The oysters here are the best ever. They are large, tender and salty. They come directly to the table from the Etang de Tau, an oyster farm district just outside Sete.

Sete

The restaurant owner who also owns his oyster beds, frowns at the suggestion of putting lemon or their special variety of vinegar on the oysters. Don’t even think about asking for cocktail sauce or Tabasco. Just ease the edges around oyster with a tiny fork to separate it from the shell, then slurp it down. Yum!!

Sete

Azais Fishmonger

Members of the Azais family have been fishermen and fishmongers in Sete for centuries. The fish market is beside the canal in a rather seedy area, but it is well worth a visit.

Fish soup is their specialty and they ship jars of the delicacy to connoisseurs around the world. Harrods and Neiman Marcus import the famous soup for their customers.

The elder Mr. Azais is a celebrity among the fishing community in Sete. It is reported he caught a giant shark on his lines and dragged it toward other fishermen nearby to bring it in. They say the white shark is the largest ever caught and that Mr. Azais holds the world record to this day. It’s not verifiable by the references I looked up… but it’s a good fish story.

Sete

La Cave de Thau

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Aside from the wine merchant being a tall, tanned, beach volleyball player, he also knows a lot about wine. His store is stocked with a large variety of local wines.

To sample the wine, Nancy had reserved some of the Roquefort cheese and baguettes from our visit to the cheese maker. The wine was specially chosen to highlight the cheese– a dry, yet slightly fruity Sauvignon blanc.

We were told it is better to serve white wine with cheese, not red wine. According to this wine expert, the tannins in red wine react unfavorably with cheese, altering the taste.

When serving an assortment of cheeses, a variety of white wines are needed. Hosts who prefer to serve only one type of white wine need to make their choice of cheese families accordingly.

Not knowing a great deal about cheese or wine, I was glad to have some guidance on pairings, especially because serving cheese courses is becoming so popular.

I was also interested to learn that this region of France is the country’s largest producer of wines. While the wines are not as famous or expensive as varieties from other areas, their importance and popularity is catching on.

The French owe a debt of gratitude to Languedoc for rescuing the wine industry in the late 1800’s. After a severe blight wiped out over 40% of the vineyards and grapes in the country, American-grafted vines were planted in Languedoc because of the fast growing season near the Mediterranean. When the vines were replanted in other regions, the country’s wine business was saved.

For your walking tour of Sete, contact Nancy McGee at Absolutely Southern France
nancy@southernfranceluxury.com

This is a sample of the Fruits de mer I’ve sampled around Sete.

Tielles
Octopus pie

Sete

Dorado

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Oysters
Baked with cracker crumbs, butter, garlic, parsley.

Sete
Shellfish platter
Raw oysters, clams, shrimp, mussels, and steamed sea snails
Couteaux
A regional specialty, “razor clam”, has a chewy consistency like squid. Baked with cracker crumbs, butter, garlic, parsley.

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4 replies »

  1. I have enjoyed following you every step of the way. I was in Uzes briefly during a Saone/Rhone river cruise last spring and had coffee in a cafe by the fountain. Like you, I was captivated by the town. Can’t wait to chat with you at the reunion.

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    • So glad to know someone has been here. It’s been so much fun sharing this adventure. Can’t believe I’ll see you again after al these years ! Thanks for the note and comments

      Like

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