Saturday night I served a fancy pork terrine bought in the Loire Valley to friends who were in town for Uzès’ Truffle Festival. That bite of pork could have been my last. I’m in love with pigs.
I’ve always had an attraction to pigs, namely Porky Pig, Piglet, Babe, and Miss Piggy. However, the attraction never kept me from having more than my share of pork barbecue, pork chops, ham, and bacon. Yesterday, though, I fell under the spell of a truffle-hunting pig. She was awesome.
Truffle hunting pig in Uzès
Snout down finding a truffle
UzèsTruffle Festival Activities
Let me set the stage …
Sunday morning, under a bright sunny sky, there was a brisk Mistral wind blowing across the main plaza in Uzès, Place aux Herbes. Crowds of couples, families, and singles were scurrying towards the center of the plaza to join in on the Black Truffle Festival festivities.
Morning view of Place aux Herbes in preparation for the Truffle Festival
In the square, there was a huge tent and dozens of little food stands, each filled with vendors with their renditions of truffled delicacies.
Merchants with truffle paraphernalia were set up to sell knives, bags, truffle shavers, and more.
Truffle gadget vendor in Uzès
There were even tiny tree starts implanted with truffles at their roots so you could take one home.
Uzes Black Truffle Hunt
A “truffle pen” filled with dirt and small trees was set up along one side of the plaza. It had been seeded with black truffles that were free to any man, woman, or child with a dog who could find them.
Not one dog found a truffle, but one stole the show. Nancy McGee’s 2-pound Papillon, Jewel.
Jewel was the show stopper … until the truffle-hunting pig arrived.
“Madame Cochon” rooted where others n’er dared to go.
She snorted and dug until every truffle was sorted out.
Finding a truffle
Surely Madame Cochon’s talent was due to the mutual admiration between her and her master. You might even call it piggy love.
Who could resist such a loveable pig?
Even the piglets-in-waiting were envious.
Uzes Black Truffle Festival Auction
Meanwhile, back at center stage, a truffle auction was starting. Truffles that had been blessed at an earlier church service were up for sale to the highest bidders to raise money for charity.
Blessed truffles for auction
Each truffle was carefully cleaned, weighed, and sold, starting at 1000 euros per kilo.
Truffle auction
All was supervised by the ever-present Compagnie Bachiques — a group of wine-loving men who show up at every wine event, dressed in the colors and golden coat of arms of the Duchy of Uzes. It is their duty to spread the word about wines from the region and to proclaim:
“VINO NON AQUA”
Uzes Black Truffle Sales
All through the day curious and, truffle-hungry guests mobbed vendors who were selling truffles by weight.
Selling truffles by weight
Precious truffle oil, butter, and cheese sold fast.
Those seeming to have the most fun were those who just showed up for the experience, the food, the company, and the wine.
What truffle delight did I buy? A little block of truffle butter, cheese with truffles, and a small jar of truffle pate that I’ll give away — it’s made with pork!
Barefoot Blogger “do I shop or take photos?”
Oh yes … and dare I forget? Nancy and I polished off a few Truffle macaroons with a nice pot of tea before she left for her drive back to Sete.
Another fun day in the South of France!
Categories: Around France, Blog, Uzès, Village Scenes in Uzes
Thanks for letting me vicariously visit the truffle market! Loved All of the photos…. can never have too many!
There will be lots more photos from this year’s festival. I can’t wait! Thanks for following and for your note, Donna.
Please know that pigs are more intelligent than dogs. And I love my dogs — all four of them. But, I haven’t been able to eat pork in decades. I don’t understand how anyone could. Come on over to the veggie side!
Jane, I’m close to being a vegetarian for those very same reasons. I’m marked lots of animals off my menu. One chef said: “If you can’t kill it, don’t eat it.” I’m getting there. A fish, yes. A chicken … maybe. Anything else …
Great post! I always wanted to go to a truffle market … and now I feel like I did! Thanks!
Too bad the festival’s in winter. You could be here. I’m loving winter in France. So friendly and quaint. Like living in the 1800’s world. No TV! Thank you my friend.
You did a remarkable job of showing us the fun you had at the truffle festival. I think you are fitting in nicely as a new resident. Thanks for the great photos too. The pig and dogs were cute sniffing out truffles and I especially liked the men in hats who are responsible for keeping everyone informed about local wines. How’s the French coming? I’m a failure at mine but I hope the consulate won’t care. My appointment is Monday. I’m nervous!
Thank you, Sandra. You should have been here! Incidentally, one of the men I pictured with the wine group is the leader of my French discussion group in Uzes. I had to stop going, though, because one of my French lessons each week is at the same time as the group meeting. My progress is very slow with the language. I’m really trying to do better. The longer I know the teacher, the more she understands my good and bad habits. Now she’s working on short sentences. I get carried away, then I can’t think of the simplest thing to say! Short and sweet. That’s what I’m going to try now. Good luck with your appointment. They aren’t going to require you speak French — at least I never had that issue. Thank goodness!
Fabulous photos Deborah, we are never in Uzes at this time of year but this is tempting me so much!!!
Thank you so much, Joanne. I’m always concerned I might include too many photos in the posts, but I just can’t wean them out. Especially the pig photos. Isn’t she a gem? It’s my first winter here and it won’t be the last. Except for the freezing weather right now, the sun shines and there’s just enough to keep you busy. Too busy to study French! But I’m working at it. You should think about coming here this time some year. No crowds!
What a fun day! So glad you’re staying fot the winter so we can share these experiences!
I never realised there would be so much to do here in the winter, Paula. Thought I was going to rest up for summer, but this is getting to be non-stop, too. Have I told you lately how much I love it here? Hope you’re on your way soon!
WOW what a fun event and looks like everyone had a wonderful time. Wish we were there!!!
It was! Black truffles were a bit disappointing after the white ones in Italy, but the festival was a blast! Partying in the Place aux Herbes into the wee morning — well, not me — well, not that long! Hurry back!
I love this post! I wish I could have been at the festival. I’m also wondering how you could ever contemplate leaving Uzes…
Thank you, June. I was just re-reading some earlier posts and it’s hard to believe how much there has been to do and to see these past 3 years. Uzes is the perfect centre of the world for me. Please do come to visit!
You can’t imagine how much I would like to visit!
Any time!