About Uzes

Winter Market in Uzes: It’s Not Quite the Same

If you’ve visited the Saturday Market in Uzes during tourist season and hate the crowds, you should be here in February. 

The market is almost the same, minus the throngs of people.

Winter in Uzes


This weekend’s market day was sunny and cold — a crisp 45 degrees when I set out. Clear blue skies and a light wind.

Winter market in Uzes


While some of my favorite vendors were in place, many shops were shuttered and closed.



A local hangout, Au Suisse d’Alger, was minus its usual outside market-watchers. Yet there was a bustle inside where it was warm and cozy.



In the market an assortment of new produce was proudly displayed and on sale.

Winter market in Uzes



Market regulars were busy as usual. 


On such a beautiful day, all who could be there were out to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air.


Winter market in Uzes



Winter market in Uzes


On the main street, or Rue Gambetta, there was a marked difference in the numbers of street vendors. Although there were many more than earlier days of winter when the weather was in the 30’s. 


Winter market in Uzes


Still you could count on those who gather at the Café de l’Esplanade to be there for coffee and to pick up their fresh oysters. 

Winter market in Uzes



Best of all, inventory at stores and on the street were priced to go.




Yes, the 3 pairs of boots are mine! At 15 euros a pair, could I resist?


When the sun is shining you can depend on the French to dine outdoors. Market days are a time for friends to gather wherever there’s an open table.



winter market in Uzes


Happy, happy day! Oh La Vache was open again after a too-long winter break. Their “CocoRico” chicken sandwich was still same. The best! Grilled chicken, aubergine and melted chèvre. Oh la la! (Not to mention a pichet (50cl) of rosé – to share, of course!)



To top off the day, a stop at Gaffier’s Green Grocery was a “must.” Always the same: the freshest produce, wine at great prices — and a welcoming smile.  



And, oh yes, it’s the only place in town to buy fresh herbs out of season. After a day at the market, my next mission? Gravlax! 





Stay tuned …


18 replies »

  1. Ah, these French markets! We keep coming back for the fresh food, the oh so reasonable prices, and the connection to the farmers and producers who present them so beautifully each week. We just can’t resist the colorful and delectable market food “gallery”.
    It would be great fun to hear some of the “stories” of the farmers who make this happen (hint). I can only imagine what it must take to fill those bins in the back of those wee trucks and travel from village to village and compete with other farmers to sell their wares. I remember while living in Paris as an au pair how argumentative one pair of vegetable sellers became as they tried to convince buyers to stop at their specific booth until my French “mother” informed me the two young men were actually brothers selling produce from the same farm. It was food theatre at its best!


    • Oh, that I could speak and understand French well enough to get in on those local stories! I’m working on it, though. When my son, who speaks perfect French,came to visit the first time, he told me how much I am missing by not hearing the conversations around me. There is a post from a couple of years ago, however, about the farm of one of the market vendors. I definitely need to work on the language and the stories! Thanks for the persuasion..https://bfblogger.com/2014/10/23/the-french-farmer/


    • It’s so different in the winter. Like another place. That’s not to say it’s still the best place to be in France …. maybe the world! Thanks for your note, Libby. Come back soon!


  2. Deborah I can hardly wait to be back in France and although the few months here in the USA have been fun with our grand kids, I really miss the town of Uzes and your piece today has got my French and Uzes mouth and mind into getting ready to get back to our Yellow Submarine with all the fun times and good wine and food. Happy to see Oh La Vache is open!!!


  3. I am so missing Uzes! We were there for January and February two winters ago. Sigh! Bisous, Elen

    “If we could read the secret history of our enemies, we would find in each person’s story enough suffering and sorrow there to disarm all hostilities.”


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