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Provence Holidays:The Magical Colors of the Luberon

With tourists heading on their Provence holidays to the Luberon to see lavender fields, Roussillon is along the way with its equally vibrant colors of red, orange and pink. These stories, fact and fiction about the multi-colored town, inform and amuse those who venture there.  

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The French commune of Roussillon is located in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, roughly midway between Avignon and Aix-en-Provence. It is in the heart of one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world — one that extends from Apt to Roussillon via Gargas and Rustrel.

Ochre deposits lend a natural reddish-brown hue to the village of Roussillon, giving the entire area the nickname “Colorodo Provençal”. In Roussillon the ochre facades of the houses vary from light yellow to dark red. Set off by the brightly painted shutters and doors, these houses form a striking contrast against lush green pine trees. To many, Roussillon is one the most beautiful villages in France.

The History of Ochre

Millions of years ago, Roussillon was covered by the sea. When the waters dried up, the area was left with ochre-bearing limestone hills. Like today, stone formations were stained with coloured clays in every conceivable iron oxide pigment from yellow to purple. Ochres, the colored clays found as a soft deposit, were intermingled with pockets of harder crystalline iron ore, in fairly even horizontal layers, of variable thicknesses.Provence Holidays

Fast-forward to 300,000 years ago. Man discovered ochre. The natural pigment with indelible color was used to embellish the caves that man inhabited. Since then ochre has been a coloration for everything from cave paintings, to pottery, to body paint, to tattoos. Proof lies in some French burial sites from 200,000 years ago. They have red ochre floors that are eight inches thick. Also, there are skeletons found at the sites, sprinkled with red powder, making researchers wonder if the powder was remnants of tattoos, applied as funeral rites, or if it was used to mask the odor of death. In any case, only skeletons and red ochre pigment are left in these burial sites.

Ochre quarries

Around the time of the French Revolution the demand for ochre was at an all-time high, due mostly to the textile industry. The industrial process for making ochre pigment was developed by the French scientist Jean-Étienne Astier from Roussillon. He invented a way to produce pigment on a large scale.

Mining ochre in Roussillon intensified. As many as seventeen different shades of dye were manufactured from the local rock. By the end of the 19th century ochre from Roussillon was exported all over the world. It was not only used for artists paints and house paints, it also became an important ingredient for the early rubber, linoleum, paper, and cardboard industries.

Ochre supported the economic base of Roussillon until shortly after World War II, even though mining stopped in the 1930’s to protect the sites from degradation or even complete destruction.The economic crisis of 1929 didn’t help business either. Foreign markets closed down one by one. The industry suffered another hit in the 1950’s. The introduction of synthetic pigments sent the industry into a downward spiral. Ochre production finally stopped mass production in the village in 1958. 

Provence HolidaysOchre is enjoying a much-deserved revival; although only one company in the area still operates. Fortunately for tourists In Roussillon, you can take a walk along the footpath of the Sentier des Ocres and appreciate the beauty of the ochre cliffs. The Conservatoire des Ocres et des Pigments Appliqués is located in one of the factories that fell into disuse over 50 years ago. Inside, tours and lectures are offered to help preserve the important history of ochre and the region. 

Why is Roussillon “Red”? Your Provence Holiday Fable

For those who want to know the real story …

...embellished by the Barefoot Blogger

MSMS6-119.53647Once upon a time there was a lovely young damsel named Sermonde. She was married to the Lord of Roussillon, Raymond d’Avignon. Like many Medieval lords, Raymond loved to hunt. He’d spend weeks on end with his men friends killing wild animals for sport and trophies. He was absent from the château so much, in fact, that Lady Sermonde grew sad and lonely.

She began going out to the local nightspots with her Lady friends. 

One night out on the town, Sermonde met a handsome young troubadour named Guillaume. They fell in love instantly. Soon the Lady and her Troubadour were involved in a torrid affair.Provence Holidays

Everyone in the village knew of the tryst between the Lady and the troubadour. They also knew that when Lord Raymond found out,  he would make the couple pay dearly.

Sooner than later Lord Raymond learned of his wife’s dastardly deception.

Rather than confront her, Lord Raymond suggested Sermonde invite her new friend, Guillaume, over for a drink. Pretending to enjoy Guillaume’s company, Lord Raymond asked the troubadour to join him on a hunt the next day.

Thinking the Lord knew nothing of his Lady’s affair, Guillaume graciously accepted the invitation. The two men left the next morning, guns in hand. 

In the early afternoon Lord Raymond returned to the Chateau. Alone.

“Where is Guillame, the troubadour?” Lady Sermonde said, greeting her husband at the door.

“Why … he’s been delayed a bit,” Lord Raymond replied. ” He’ll join us later,” he added. “… for dinner.”

With that, Lord Raymond turned around and headed for the kitchen. He often prepared meals that featured the spoils of his hunts.

When day turned to dusk, Lady Sermonde left her boudoir and walked downstairs to the dining room. Expecting to see her lover, Guillaume, waiting for her, she was surprised to see only her husband, Lord Raymond.

“You were expecting your friend, Guillame?” the Lord asked slyly? “He’ll be here any moment,” he said. “Let’s be seated. I’m certain he won’t be upset if we start.”

Politely, Lord Raymond led Sermonde to her place at the table. He returned to his seat opposite hers and began carving the main course.

With great pride, he presented his wife a plate filled with his day’s bounty. “Here,” he proclaimed. “Enjoy!”

Lady Sermonde took a bite of her dinner, then another. Realizing that the “meat” served to her had an unusual taste and texture, she remarked: “This, my dear Lord Raymond, is a most uncommon creature, is it not? Have you found a new type beast to bring to our table,” she asked.

“Yes, indeed,” said the Lord gleefully; “I hope you like it, my dear.”

“It is a pity our friend Guillame could not be here to enjoy this delightful meal with us,” stated Lady Sermonde.

“Au contraire,” Lord Raymond chirped. “He is here,, “he chimed. “Guillaume is the main attraction, the main course.”

Lady Sermonde dropped her fork.  Her mouth flew wide open. She screamed. Her screams filled the room, the château, and soon, the village. Before the Lord or servants could catch her, Sermonde ran to the top of the château’s highest tower; she threw open the window; and she jumped.

Down her blood flowed, onto the hills, into the valley below. Lady Sermonde’s blood colored the earth around Roussillon.  Forever and today.

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Provence Holidays

Check out Shutters and Sunflowers for more information about the Luberon.

 

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6 replies »

  1. Deborah this is a fantastic blog and I did not know there was still a factory and a tour to explain the past mining of Ochre. I always love the myths and stories about places and this one fits the bill perfectly. Well done!!

    • Thank you, Rich. The Luberon is a place I can visit over and over and never tire of seeing the beauty of the buildings and surroundings. Love the fable, too.

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