There are few things I enjoy more than eating seafood. A Sete gourmet tour introduced me to a whole lot more favorites.
I was brought up going to a fish camp on the Catawba River, just outside Charlotte, North Carolina, where you could have all the fried fish, tiny Calabash shrimp, and hush puppies you could eat. It was later in life that I learned fish doesn’t always have to be dipped in batter and fried in oil to be delicious.
Probably my best lessons on fish varieties, flavors and textures came from living in the Philippines during my ex’s work assignment in the 1970’s. I could devour a whole fish — head, tail, fins and all. In fact I was told I eat fish like a “Philippina”. Nothing’s left but the bones.
Sete Gourmet Tour
Discovering Sete has been like striking gold. It’s a seafood paradise. From anchovies to oysters, from sea snails to mussels, clams and shrimp. They have it all.
To find out about seafood from the Mediterranean and other regional foods, I joined a gourmet tour by Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France. Nancy’s lived in Sete over 30 years, so she knows the best local foods and vendors. She’s also very socially active, so she knows what’s in vogue in this part of France.
Here’s a glimpse of the foods we sampled on the tour and the vendors we met.
Sete Gourmet Tour
Lou Pastrou Cheeses – Lou Pastrou cheeses are extraordinary. Perhaps he wears a physician’s coat because they are so special. The house favorite is Roquefort which is truly one of the best cheeses I’ve ever eaten. In addition to the sharp and tangy Roquefort flavor, the cheese’s texture is velvety and creamy. It literally melts in your mouth.We learned a few interesting facts about Roquefort and cheese etiquette. First, Roquefort is pronounced “rock”fort. Second, only cheese from Roquefort can be called by that name. It’s just like calling sparkling wine “champagne” if it’s not from the Champagne district of France. It’s simply not done. Furthermore, it’s illegal.
Cheese etiquette is very important in France. When you are served a slice of cheese on a platter to share, never serve yourself the tip end of the slice. That’s the best part of the piece and you’ll offend the other guests. Likewise, don’t cut a piece along the edge. That’s the worse part of the cheese slice because it has the rind, or other curing ingredients — like salt — and you’ll be disappointed. Instead, cut several diagonal sections (start at the front edge and cut towards the center) then take one piece for yourself.
The unusual cheese cutter displayed at the shop has an interesting history. Cutters like this were used in monasteries by monks who were discouraged from taking large slices of cheese for themselves because they were “not worthy.” The slicer is used for a particular variety of hard cheese — like Parmesan– and the cutter blade sweeps in a circle slicing a finely shaved piece of cheese.
Demoiselles Dupuy Restaurant serves oysters to die for! I’ve eaten a lot of oysters in my life because I seek them out whenever I travel. The oysters here are the best ever. They are large, tender and salty. They come directly to the table from the Etang de Tau, an oyster farm district just outside Sete. The restaurant owner who also owns his oyster beds, frowns at the suggestion of putting lemon or their special variety of vinegar on the oysters. Don’t even think about asking for cocktail sauce or Tabasco. Just ease the edges around oyster with a tiny fork to separate it from the shell, then slurp it down. Yum!!
We were told it is better to serve white wine with cheese, not red wine. According to this wine expert, the tannins in red wine react unfavorably with cheese, altering the taste. When serving an assortment of cheeses, a variety of white wines are needed. Hosts who prefer to serve only one type of white wine need to make their choice of cheese families accordingly.
Not knowing a great deal about cheese or wine, I was glad to have some guidance on pairings, especially because serving cheese courses is becoming so popular. I was also interested to learn that this region of France is the country’s largest producer of wines. While the wines are not as famous or expensive as varieties from other areas, their importance and popularity is catching on.
The French owe a debt of gratitude to Languedoc for rescuing the wine industry in the late 1800’s. After a severe blight wiped out over 40% of the vineyards and grapes in the country, American-grafted vines were planted in Languedoc because of the fast growing season near the Mediterranean. When the vines were replanted in other regions, the country’s wine business was saved.
Sete Gourmet Tour
Here’s just a sample of some of the seafood specialties in Sete.
For your walking tour of Sete, contact Nancy McGee at Absolutely Southern France
More information about Sete? Contact the Tourist Office
Categories: Around France, Blog, Chapter 1: The First Visit, Loving Food, Sete
Hi. I am enjoying your blogs and have joined as we are hoping to stay in Nimes next year for six months (September to March) as part of our 12 months in France. I have really appreciated the information you have provided on all your blogs. I am not a cheese eater but my husband loves it. Looks like a weekend in Sete will be added to the already long list of places to visit.
Oh, you’re going to have so much fun! Nimes is perfectly located to roam around lots of the south of France. Sete, too! Be sure to read more about their indoor market and beach restaurants. The beach clubs stay up through September, I believe. Please keep me posted!
Great post Deborah….I love Sête too. The cheese cutter, a girolle, is made specifically for tête de moine cheese and comes from the Swiss Jura. It shaves the cheese into thin ruffles thus becoming warmer and bringing out the flavor. These cutters are relatively new..1980’s….the monks would have used knives to shave the cheese. One theory is that the cheese was shaved in the same manner as they shaved their heads…la tonsure. And, indeed, the top of the cheese does look like a monk’s tonsure.
Very interesting! Thanks for the update. It all makes for good stories! Happy to know you’re a Sete lover, too!
I have enjoyed following you every step of the way. I was in Uzes briefly during a Saone/Rhone river cruise last spring and had coffee in a cafe by the fountain. Like you, I was captivated by the town. Can’t wait to chat with you at the reunion.
So glad to know someone has been here. It’s been so much fun sharing this adventure. Can’t believe I’ll see you again after al these years ! Thanks for the note and comments
Wow! If I ever ask you to join me for dinner at Panini’s, you’re gonna yawn! ;)) Lan
Well, when you come to my house, I am NOT going to serve cheese!