Admittedly, my old view of Marseille’s story came from mob and war stories in books, TV, and movies. Now, after visiting the city, I’m impressed. To me, Marseille is a story of resilience. It shows how perseverance conquers adversity.

Marseille’s Story: Prehistory and Ancient Massalia

The earliest settlements in the area, now known as Marseille, date back to the Paleolithic period (60,000 BC). Residents lived along the Marseille basin, which was about the size of the current city. The location was ideal for all types of sea activities. It was protected on the opposite side from the strong northerly wind, Les Mistral, by a range of tall mountains.

Around 600 BC, the Phocaeans, Greeks from Asia Minor, arrived in the area to be close to their trading partner, Gaul. They named the city “Massalia.”

Remains of Greek temple

A popular legend is that Massalia was a wedding gift from the Gallic king, Nanos, to his daughter upon marriage to a Greek sailor. The story supports the belief that the nations were peaceful at that time. We know the blending of the two cultures resulted in introducing olive oil, wine, ceramics, and Grecian gods into the Gaelic world.

From 600 BC to 49 BC, the independent Greek city of Massalia grew into a prestigious seaport. Its sea trade, infrastructure, and political system dominated the trade routes. They distributed goods along the coasts of Gaul to Iberia.

Model of early Massalia

Marseille’s Story: The Roman City

Caesar captured Massalia in 49 BC. Artifacts unearthed at a site where the History Museum now stands attest to the Roman influence on the town. Massalia’s habits and customs, however, remained strongly Greek. Even the language.

Marseille’s Story: Sacked, Ravaged, Back on Track

From the Roman age through medieval times, the city that became Marseille saw great prosperity and near-total destruction. The Visigoths captured Marseille, and the Franks sacked it. In the early 10th century, Marseille experienced a revival as part of a Provençal territory divided in two. Arles and Marseille were the capitals.

Marseille was an independent republic with strong trade relations and naval prowess during the twelfth century. A currency of its own boosted the city’s stature as well.

Marseille’s Story: A French Center of Commerce

Marseille maintained political autonomy until it was absorbed into the Kingdom of France in 1481, along with Provence. Through years of religious wars and changes in French rulers, Marseille maintained its role as a significant center of commerce and a vital port for defense. The city had an arsenal and fleets of warships.

Fort Saint John

Under Louis XIV, Marseille was given “free port” status. To affirm his political power, the king ordered a new urban plan for the city. The size of Marseille went from 65 hectares to 195. Straight streets lined with mansions appeared, including the Canebière that leads to the Old Port. The new city had a fort and a new town hall.

The Great Plague

Thought to be carried from Central Asia through ship crews, the Great Plague of 1720 devastated Marseille. Over 30,000 out of the city’s population of 90,000 died from the outbreak.

Marseille’s Story: The Revolution

The people of Marseille supported the Revolution sending hundreds of men north to Paris to fight. Along the way, the rebellious marchers sang a song that is now the French national anthem, La Marseillaise.

Troops from Marseille as depicted on the Arc de Triomphe in Paris

Marseille’s Story: Boom Time and Gangs

Marseille’s middle of the nineteenth century was a “boom” time. The port became a maritime hub for the rest of the world. Trade with the Far East and significant shipping lines boosted the creation of modern culture. At the same time, prosperity cut a deep wedge between the already divided city. The rich against the working class.

Refugees, expelled or fleeing from their countries after WWI, brought droves of Italians, Corsicans, Germans, Armenians, and Spaniards to Marseille in search of work. The world of gangsters and the underground grew under leaders such as Carbone and Spirito.

Paul Carbone (top) and François Spirito

Marseille’s Story: Modern War and Destruction

The image of Marseille as a den of violence, drugs, and crime is persistent in the eyes of many. Big screen movies and TV series, still today, such as “Marseille,” help perpetuate the city’s reputation. Marseille is the second-largest city in France today, so an element of such activity can be expected.

It’s how Marseille survived the apocalypse during World War II that is nearly incomprehensible.

German troops seal off the Old Port quarter of Marseille, the harbor side community.

The Old Port and surrounding districts were bombed and destroyed. The Germans, the Vichy government, the Militia, and the French Popular Party suppressed the people. In January 1943, more than 2,000 Marseillais were rounded up and sent to concentration camps. 

Like a phoenix, Marseille thrives. 

Marseille has an enduring charm. The metropolitan area of 1.5 million people consists of people of all races, creeds, and nationalities. It is a place of huge economic, social and cultural significance to France. Marseille is proud, and it shows.

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