Thinking about a visit to the Loire Valley? Join me as I recall my adventure into the heartland of France–a Loire Valley tour. Along with my “partner in crime” Nancy McGee from Absolutely South France, our challenge was to visit as many chateaus and vineyards as we could cram into three days in the Loire Valley, plus two travel days.
Day One: Sete to Amboise, via Millau Viaduct and Clermont Ferrand
Starting out from Sete, we drove non-stop to Clermont Ferrand , crossing theMillau Viaduct. Frankly, I had no idea I would be seeing the infamous bridge on this journey to the Loire Valley. What a treat! The tallest bridge in the world, the Millau Viaduct’s tallest mast reaches 1,124.3 (343 metres) above the base. Designed by architect Sir Norman Foster and French structural engineer Michel Virlogeux, it was completed in three years.
Millau Viaduct
Loire Valley Route
Clemont Ferrand
The home of Michelin Tires, Clermont Ferrand shows its rich heritage with impressive buildings and magnificent St. Pierre Cathedral. Known for being a city surrounded by volcanoes, theChaîne des Puys, Clermont Ferrand is also famous for its International Short Film Festival.
Clermont Ferrand
Clermont Ferrand
Loire Valley Route
Cityscapes
It only we’d had more time to see the city! Especially the Cathedral. Here are some of the picture-perfect scenes that make Clermont Ferrand “oh, so French.”
Apparently, the town’s favorite boulanerie
One very special stop in Clermont Ferrand was the Artisan Fromagerie Nivesse. Nancy visited there with a tour group and she raved about the selection and quality of the cheeses. She was so right! In fact, since tasting their 36-month aged cheeses, I’m hooked!
Look at the aged goat cheese! Yes, the dark brown logs of cheese
If you haven’t seen a techno-fabulous French light show, you’re in for a treat. The French take lights and action to new dimensions: music, drama and imagination.
French Light Show: Carrières de Lumières
A recent visit to Carrières de Lumières was my third experience with the digital, immersive events that are staged in a former bauxite mine outside the village Les Baux de Provence. This year’s exhibition is “Picasso and the Spanish Masters” along with a pop culture show, “Flower Power”. Believe me, the photos don’t do justice to the real events.
First, let me set the stage. When you enter the Carrières de Luminères you think you are walking into a movie theatre. Except that it’s built into the side of a mountain. You can go directly into the theatre area or you can walk around the inside of the cavernous halls of the mine. I would suggest you do the latter sometime during your visit. Walls of bauxite surround you, almost as wide and high as you can see.
Once you enter the theatre area, be prepared to gasp. It’s ginormous! Every surface, except the floor, is a projection area. Art images are stretched across huge canvases of stone in front of you, behind you and around every corner. The experience is totally surreal.
Added to the impact, the colossal space is cool and mostly dark. Except for the light that reflects from the art, there is no lighting in the room. When the scenery changes, you stumble around in near-darkness until the next images appear. If fact, if you’re not sure of your footing, you might want to take a seat on the stone steps that are around in various places
Take along a sweater or wrap. It’s really cold inside. If you forget one, you can buy a fleece blanket at the admission office for €5. No kidding!
Before Carrières de Lumières
In 1821 French geologists discovered bauxite near the village of Les Baux. During the 19th century there was a large demand for construction-worthy white stone. The mine in Les Baux prospered. Later with the advent of more modern building materials, the demand for stone fell and in 1935 the quarry closed.
The abandoned quarry was repurposed in the 1960s as a movie set by French filmmaker, Jean Cocteau. His movie, Le Testament d’Orphée (The Testament of Orpheus), featured an appearance by Picasso, of all people! as well as Spanish matador Luis Miguel Dominguín.
Carrières de Lumières 2018: Picasso and the Spanish Masters
“Picasso and the Spanish Masters” is divided into two parts: one, to explore Picasso’s Spanish origins; and two, to show how Picasso, inspired by the masters, shattered traditional figurative art. Portraits and scenes of daily Spanish life painted by Goya, Rusiñol, Zuloaga, and Sorolla appear in the first part of the presentation. Picasso’s work dominates the second part of the show with a near-chronology of his life and art forms. Never before, and perhaps never again, will the public be shown such an emotion-filled demonstration of the life and works of Picasso. Through the images displayed on the massive walls, emphasized by a dramatic, musical sound track, we pass through history and the tumultuous life of one of the world’s greatest modern artists.
Carrières de Lumières 2018: Pop Culture: Flower Power
Remember the psychedelic visuals, colors and music of the 60’s? The “Flower Power” exhibition that follows immediately after Picasso takes you back to the hippy generation. The bright and lively show is not only fun to watch, the tunes of the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Simon and Garfunkel, and the Beach Boys had me dancing in the dark.
French Light Show: Carrières de Lumières
Important! The best time to visit Carrières de Lumières is in the morning. Drive towards the entrance to the historic town of Les Baux. Just follow the signs. If you arrive early, you’ll easily find a parking spot. If you’re late, it’ll be a nightmare.
The production is repeated throughout the day and lasts less than an hour. You can stay to watch as long as you’d like.
Practical Information: Open every day. January, March, November and December: 10h-18h April, May, June, September and October: 9h30-19h July and August: 9h30-19h30 Last entry 1 hour before closing
Here are some images from this year’s show.
Scenes below are from Carrières de Lumières 2016 – Dreams of a Summer Night – Chagall
There’s lots going on and plenty of people around to enjoy Uzès Fete Votive.
Uzès Fete Votive
A summer event that everyone looks forward to attending is Uzès Fete Votive. A few posts ago I was raving about the Fete and saying how happy I was that it was coming back to Uzes soon. The long weekend event I remembered had been spectacular. In fact, I wondered how this year’s activities could equal the previous ones. Sad to say, I was disappointed with the attraction I enjoy the most– the Procession of Pégoulade — the parade down main street.
But who wouldn’t be excited about this? As good as it gets!
Abrivado in Uzes for Fete Votive 2016
What is a Fete Votive?
St. Theodoret Cathedral n Uzes
Fete Votives are celebrations with long traditions in many villages throughout the south of France. The festivals were customarily held at the end of harvest time. Today you see signs announcing various Fete Votives anytime during summer and fall. The event honors the patron saint of the town. In Uzès the patron is Saint Theodoret of Antioch — the saint for whom the beautiful cathedral that stands majestically in the town is named. (The story of Saint Theodoret looks like something I’m going to explore for a future post. Stay tuned ….)
When Fete Votive comes to town, you know it’s here when metal barricades are set up alongside the main street, Boulevard Gambetta. Running the bulls and horses is one of the first events — sponsored by various Abrivado clubs from the area and from as far away as the Camargue. The town awards coveted prizes to the clubs that are the best animal handlers.
While an Abrivado looks like a mad rush of animals, riders and young men who follow behind grabbing at the bulls, it’s pretty much orchestrated and managed. There are stories, however, of bulls that break into the crowd — or spectators who get in the way of the “stampede.” Note: bull’s horns are covered with leather protectors, but just the force of a bull is enough to keep me out of the way! (Except to take photos, of course.)
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Steak tartare at Ma Cantine
Uzès Fete Votive Fun with Friends
Activities for the Fete Votive seem endless. To be honest, I go to just a few. Getting together with friends for the Abrivado and the parade that follows is my own sort of tradition. This year, dinner at Ma Cantine was our place to be. The cafe is located right alongside Boulevard Gambetta. My friends and I didn’t miss a thing! Ma Cantine offers house specialties during Fete Votive that include their freshly hand-chopped steak tartare. It’s not one of my favourite dishes, but plenty of visitors and locals love it. Add a bit of hot sauce and crispy fries on the side and my friends who tried it were in heaven.
Procession of Pégoulade
After dinner and close to dark it was time for us to leave Ma Cantine and join the crowds waiting for the Procession of Pégoulade – a parade that starts at the Cathedral and ends at the bottom of the Boulevard. This year ‘s parade had a “back to the future” theme with a “robotic” float — ‘Turbulence Steampunk.” It was a ambidextrous steam engine with psychedelic lights and loud, booming music. Along with the float were “blowers”in belle époque costumes who ran in front and around the float shooting streamers of coloured paper and confetti at everything and everyone in sight.Behind the “blowers” were ladies wearing flowing silk dresses who were walking effortlessly on stilts. They thrilled admirers by stooping over to paint elegant designs on the faces and arms of any who stepped forward. The Fete Votive procession, with fewer and less grand floats than previous years’, was still an amazing sight to see as the process glided down the boulevard, silhouetted against the ancient buildings of Uzes.
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So … the challenge “how will they top the past years’ Procession of Pégoulade?” is answered. But there’s always next year.
When you go to a friend’s house and there’s great food and wine flowing and lots of people you enjoy sitting around, it’s pretty special, don’t you agree?
What if you learn how to create the foods you are served? A hands-on cooking class? That’s the perfect way to describe a “Provençal Small Dish” class at Le Pistou School Uzès.
Petra and new friend from San Francisco
My buddy and new Uzés expat, Paula
Moi
Voila! Petra and sous chef Michelle show off our perfect Tarte Soleil
Learn to Cook Provençal
From tarts with roquefort cheese and walnuts to tarts with abricots and everything in between, learning to cook with Petra Carter of Le Pistou Cooking School Uzès is not just an education, it’s a ton of fun.
Tarte Soleil with roquefort cheese and walnuts
Tian Estival with zucchini, eggplant, onion and more fresh local vegetables
Zucchini flowers
Razor clams
Plum tart
Just start with the freshest ingredients.
The south of France is known for fresh local ingredients and healthy foods. When you know how to prepare vegetables like tomatoes, zucchini and eggplant Provençal-style, for example, you’ll be changed for life. A “Mediterranean” diet is addictive… and good for you.
And let the good times roll!
Everyone gets into the action when you spend the day with Petra.
Make your own cheese? Yes! You can!
How would you like to serve a cheese board to your friends and family and say: “I made that!” It’s easier than you think with the recipes and tips that Petra shares with the class.
When visitors to the south of France put “wine tour” at the top of their list of things to do, a Châteauneuf-du-Pape wine tour quickly comes to mind. The wine growing region that covers approximately 3,200 hectares (12.4 miles) of land in the Rhone valley is home to some of France’s most well known … and pricey wines.
Unless you know a lot about wine, you might be surprised to hear that “Châteauneuf-du-Pape” is not just a wine growing region. It’s also a historic “monument” as well as a town in the Vaucluse department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France.
The Châteauneuf-du-Pape “monument” is what is left of a fourteenth century chateau built under the auspices of Pope John XXII. Towering above the fields and vineyards of the region and visible for miles around, the chateau is among the last vestiges of the Roman Popes who ruled from nearby Avignon from 1309 until the Schism of 1378. “Châteauneuf-du-Pape,” translated “new castle of the Pope,” was built to be the summer home of the Popes.
The town of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a small village with a few restaurants and lots of wine sellers. It reminds me of a wine smorgasbord. You can hop from one “degustion” to another.
Just outside the town center, there are dozens of wine producers devoted to making and selling their own special varieties of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Farther out you’ll find private and “open to the public” wine domains with acres and acres of vineyards. Some new, some old. Some that have been handed down through centuries of vingerons, complete with ancient stone chateaus and wine caves.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Tour
The Barefoot Blogger has visited Chateâuneuf-du-Pape to check out the wines on several occasions. The first was to see the territory by myself, next was with my cousin visiting from Arizona. The last time was to treat my visitor from North Carolina to her first wine tour in France. I called on my friend who’s considered to be one of the best guides in the area — Sophie Bergeron of Travel in Provence.
During the half day we spent with Sophie, I found out why she’d earned her good reputation. She knows her wine. From working in vineyards to selling wines, Sophie’s been in the business since she was a child. The no-nonsense tour guide educated and entertained us. The wine “lesson” was complete with charts and maps and wine tasting. Next we were off to the wineries.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Tour
Sophie’s choice of wineries to visit was brilliant– including one that appeared to “blessed” by the ancient chateau’s tower because of its proximity. How much fun to get “up close and personal” with the winemaker and his crew.
A wine tasting with the pros
Love the wine and the wine maker!
To add to the perfect day, after our Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Tour, Sophie introduced us to one of her favorite restaurants that overlooked the valley, Verger des Papes
Lunch with a view
A Perfect day, A Perfect Châteauneuf-du-Pape Wine Tour
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For more information about Sophie Bergeron and Travel in Provence, visit the website.
If you would like to keep up with the day-by-day adventures of the Barefoot Blogger, join the conversation on FaceBook and Twitter.
I’ve just returned on a TGV train to Avignon after spending 24 hours in Nice. The quick trip on the fast train to Nice was planned with Patricia Sands and Nancy McGee to finalize our plans for the Memories Tour in September.
Nice Train Station
The train ride along the Côte d’Azur out of Nice is spectacular. Antibes. Cannes. These are places I only dreamed I would see. Now they’re passing by me as if they were crossings on a road.
Strings of ocre rocks line up offshore like stalagmites on a cave floor. The sea is solid blue except for the white tips of the gentle waves and the occasional gray spots that lead to the depths below.
Riding in a high speed train from place to place is getting to be something I take for granted now. Avignon to Nice, 3+ hours. Nimes to Paris, 2+ hours. Nimes to Barcelona, 3+ hours. Going to and from world-known places is easier than driving from Beaufort, South Carolina to Atlanta, Georgia.
Somehow I feel like I’m experiencing time travel.
How quickly the landscape changes as the speeding train rolls from the coast through the fertile fields and vineyards of Provence. The landscape is dotted with stucco Mediterranean houses with red tile roofs. However, the stucco has changed from tan to rose. Tree covered mountains border the background on both sides of the track.Toulon. Marseille. The back side and outskirts of the large towns are not the best views.
Soon the modern train station of Avignon will be in sight. It seems to stand in the middle of nowhere. Concrete and glass. Steel covered parking structures and carefully marked spaces for the hundreds of cars that move in and out, delivering passengers to and from trains and their next destinations.
It’s all part of what I call “home” now. A different world. A new landscape. A new culture.
I could get use to this.
Avignon Train Station
Note to all: All this travel is keeping me so busy that I’m behind on my posts to you. Please bear with me. I promise, you’ll enjoy the ride. Italy, Croatia, lavender fields, food and fun in Provence, and so much more.
To see all pages of the attached brochures, click on the image title and/or caption to reveal the pdf.
To translate to English, copy the section of content you wish to read, then paste into Google Translate. Voila! French to English.
To keep up with Uzès events on a regular basis, join us on Barefoot Uzes on FaceBook. It’s a group forum where you can ask questions about where to stay, what to see … even where to find a plumber!
If you’re like me it’s sometimes difficult to find my way around airports and train stations. Since I often take a train from Avignon to Charles de Gaulle in Paris, I jotted down directions and took a few photos to create a CDG Airport Photo Guide to help me learn and remember where to go.
This is a beginner’s level CDG train/airport guide that may help you navigate. As they say in France, “bonne chance.”
CDG Airport Photo Guide
“Gare” = Train
The first thing for non-French speakers to know when looking for a train station is the word for “train station” in French. It’s “GARE. ” If you plant that into your brain, you can read the signs.
Next you should know that SNCF and TGV train lines run out of the same station at the CDG airport. They go from there to almost anywhere in Europe. Those acronyms should also go on file in your head because you need to watch for them on the signs along the way.
International arrivals
A better map of CDG airport from the Internet
The most important thing for you to remember is that the trainstation (GARE) is in between Terminal 2 (A)(B)(C)(D) and Terminal 2 (E)(F)
GARE at CDG airport
Arriving Terminal 2 A-F
You have it made. Head for GARE on “Niveau 2”.
CDG Terminal 2 and SCNF/TGV
Arriving Terminal 1 or Terminal 3
If you arrive at Terminal 1 or Terminal 3, you have to take the shuttle from “Aeroport CDG 1” at Terminal 3 to “Aeroport CDG 2-TGV (see below)
Shuttle from Terminal 1 and 3 to Terminal 2 and TGV at CDG Airport
From Terminal 3 this is one of the entrances to the shuttle. The sign is near a rack of baggage carts.
You have to go down an escalator here. (Hope you don’t have too many bags. I have no idea where there’s an elevator.)
Entrance to the GARE shuttle from inside Terminal 2B
CDG Airport Photo Guide
After the Shuttle
When you exit the shuttle, signs for “Gare SNCF” will show you the way to the train station. This is a multi-level building. The station and trains are on the lower levels. See map of CDG Terminal 2 and SCNF/TGV above.
Take a left when you pass Paul’s
If you have plenty of time and you’re hungry, stop and eat. There aren’t many choices for food beyond here.
When you round the corner from Paul’s you’ll see this huge board. Never mind it. Look for the nearest “down” elevator.
Downstairs looks like this.
If you’ve made it here, you’re almost there!
Look for the Departure and Arrival signs that list destinations in France and Europe. (Trains leave this same station for destination inside Paris, so be certain you’re looking at the correct sign.)
Have a seat and wait for 20 minutes until it’s time for your train. That’s when they post the platform where you board. If you don’t see the name of your destination right away, don’t worry. The train must be within 20 minutes of so from the terminal to show up on the board.
If you miss your train, like I did, you’ll need to look for the SNCF information office. It’s on this floor and the entrance is well-marked. The information agents help with TGV, too. Be sure to grab a ticket when you walk in the door, or you’ll never be served. The line moves quicker than you think, so don’t take a ticket and walk out.
BUY INSURANCE – It’s really cheap to purchase trip insurance when you make your original purchase, especially when you’re coming in from an international flight.
If you miss your train, you’ll get a full refund deposited into your bank. Unless you have lots of time at the station, don’t worry about getting a refund on the spot. The attendant at the information office will help you buy a new ticket and you can get a refund for the missed train from the insurance company later. Ask for a duplicate of your new ticket so that you can send it to the insurance company if they request it. You have five business days to file for a refund.
SNCF Information at CDDG
CDG Airport Photo Guide
How to find the right train car.
Since I make every mistake possible, I’m going to assume you’re as uninformed as I am about trains and how to board them.
On the ticket pictured below I’ve circled the train car number and the seat number. VOITURE = CAR # PLACE ASSISE = SEAT #
“Depart” and “Arriv” are self-explanatory — except remember you’re on a 24 hour clock!
All that’s left to know is the platform where you meet the train. You find that out from the board inside the terminal about 20 minutes before the train’s arrival. (See above.)
Assuming you’ve found the correct platform, you’ll find electronic displays on the platform indicating where each car of the train will be located for boarding. You can use this chart to find the mark on the platform corresponding to the car you would like to board. Don’t hesitate to ask another passenger or railway agent for help. Even if the person doesn’t speak English, you can show them the “car” and “seat” number on your ticket and they’ll point the way.
CDG Airport Photo Guide
First class or second?
I like to pass on budget-conscious tips to others when I can. Having traveled in France by train, both first and second class, there are a few distinct differences: crowds, space, noise. Everytime I’ve traveled first class I’ve had a place that seats four all to myself. This time, on second class, all four seats were filled. There were also lots of children and babies.
If you can deal with these differences, the cost of second-class vs. first class is sometimes as much as half. They both arrived at the same place at the same time.
Second class train car Paris to Avignon
Hope this has been helpful.
For more information, this TGV post has more photos, videos and explanations.
Had the Barefoot Blogger known lavender fields are so close to Uzes, and how fabulous they are in person, I would have been visiting them much before now.
Thank goodness I found out how to get to some of the best fields.
Lavender in Provence
There’s more than one way to keep lavender year round. It’s more lasting than sachets and bouquets.
Last week I discovered lavender salt!
Lavender salt
There’s a tiny village just outside Uzes that sells all types of local specialties, including olive oil that’s milled on site. The store and the moulin à huile are inside a garage attached to the proprietor’s home.
The most surprising discovery was the building attached to the opposite side of her house — the remains of a church from the 11th century!
Eleventh century church outside Uzes
This is part of the joy of living in this part of the world. A tiny, out-of-the-way place can be an amazing find. Ancient buildings are still standing, alongside some of the most unique local items for sale.
Mustard with orange, figs and onions
Olive oil fresh from the press
Dried flowers to top salads
So far, I’ve tried the lavender salt. It’s a winner. The rest is yet to be enjoyed!
There’s a party going on every Tuesday night, right under my window. Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes. I’m not complaining. It’s vendors with jewelry, leather goods, wine and, of course, there are musicians.
Nothing compares with the Saturday or Wednesday markets in Uzes. Yet these Tuesday events, clearly for tourists, have the added attraction of a nighttime ambiance in the Place des Duche.
Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
Zumba in Uzes
The event runs from 6-11pm and starts off with Zumba.The Zumba sessions are led by a local class and visitors are welcome to join in.
Soon the marketplace is busy with people. By night it’s loud and filled with music and happy sounds.
Later, musicians take center stage at the Mairie (town hall).
There is truly something for everyone to enjoy.
Candy and nougat
Jewelry vendors with handmade necklaces, bracelets and more
Crepes made on the spot
Crepe making with either Nutella or the buttery sugar variety are favorites.
Silver jewelers add initials to bracelets and necklaces
Balloons are for kids here in France, too.
Dogs are well-behaved
Handmade head dresses are modeled by beautiful young women.
Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
No matter how I try to stay in on Tuesday nights, I just can’t miss Les Mardes Nocturnes D’Uzes. Who could blame me?
Scarves on sale blow in the summer night’s breeze.
Ruins of the city walls look over Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
Why is Nimes a “must see” for Roman history lovers? Because it’s a city where you can literally see, touch and experience Roman life in France during the days of the Roman Empire.
France has so many amazing places to visit it’s hard to decide where to start. If you’re a Roman history buff, you must visit Nimes to learn about Roman life in France. Unlike other places with rich Roman history that are now in ruins, there are many artifacts from Augustus Caesar’s time that are in active use still today.
Nimes
Roman Life in France
In Nimes you can walk on the same streets, into the same buildings … literally sit in the same seats as the Romans who once occupied this part of Gaul.
Visiting Nimes is more that seeing “remnants” of a Roman civilization. There are intact, still-standing Roman structures. A Roman temple, a Roman arena, a Roman tower. Places that are enjoyed now by real, 21st century people.
Maison Carrée
Roman Amphitheater , the Arènes de Nîmes
The Tour Magne
Roman Life in France
The Roman History of Nimes
The area that is now Nimes was an established community as early as 400o BC. It was founded as a Roman colony (Colonia Nemausus) by Tiberius Claudius Nero in 45 or 44 B.C. for veterans that had served Julius Caesar under his command in Gaul and the invasion of Egypt. The name “Nemausus” was derived from the name of a Celtic god — the protector of the nearby spring that provided water for the early settlement.
Coin of Nemausus circa 40 BC
As part of the Roman Empire, Nemausus benefitted from great wealth — especially during the reign of Augustus (27BC-14 AD) and from an era of relative peace, Pax Romana (Roman Peace). The city reflected its opulence with grand architecture typical of a prosperous Roman colony. Among the most famous, the Maison Carrée was originally a Corinthian temple that dominated the city’s forum.
It is said that Thomas Jefferson became so enamored with the Maison Carrée during a visit to France, as foreign minister to the United States, that he had a clay replica made. He later used the model to design the capitol building of Virginia, his home state.
Maison Carrée in Nimes
As part of the Roman Empire, Nemausus benefitted from great wealth — especially during the reign of Augustus (27BC-14 BC) — and from an era of relative peace, Pax Romana (Roman Peace). The city reflected its opulence with grand architecture typical of a prosperous Roman colony. Among the most famous, the Maison Carrée was originally a Corinthian temple that dominated the city’s forum.
It is said that Thomas Jefferson became so enamored with the Maison Carrée during a visit to France, as foreign minister to the United States, that he had a clay replica made. He later used the model to design the capitol building of Virginia, his home state.
Virginia State Capitol Building in Richmond,VA
Roman Life in France
The Arènes de Nimes or the “Amphitheater”
In Roman times, the Arènes de Nimes could hold up to 24,000 spectators spread over 34 rows of terraces. Divided into four separate areas, each section could be accessed through hundreds of galleries, stairwells and passages.
Aréna in Nimes
The amphitheatre was designed for crowd control and ultimate viewing pleasure. There were no bottlenecks when spectators flooded in and all had unrestricted visibility of the entire arena. Several galleries and entrances were located beneath the arena so that animals and gladiators could access the arena during the Roman games.
Gallery entrance inside the amphitheater
The “games” included animal hunts with lions, tigers and elephants and gladiator matches. Executions were held, as well, where those in town who were convicted to death were thrown to the animals as punishment.
Inside the Aréna Nimes
Roman Life in France
After the times of the Roman Empire, Nimes fell into the hands of the Visigoths, then the Muslims. The Visigoths turned the arena into a fortress or “castrum arena” where the townspeople could gather in the event of an attack. When Pepin the Short, father of Charlemagne, captured the city in 752, the splendor that was Nimes was pretty much in ruins. It was not until 1786 that work began to be restore the arena to its original grandeur.
The Tour Magne (Magne Tower) remains a prominent structure in Nimes, erected during the reign of Augustus in 1 BC. It is said to have been built atop an earlier Celtic/Gallic tower from 15BC- 14BC. The tallest structure for miles around, the Tour Magne was used as part of the fortification that surrounded the city. What remains of the tower can be seen from throughout the city.
Tour Magna before
Tour Magna today
Along with the Roman buildings that are still in use today in Nimes, there are ruins of the early civilization that visitors can wander through or view.
The Porte d’Auguste, part of the fortifications of Nemausus, Nîmes
The so-called Temple of Diana, built during the Augustine era (Photo by Carole Raddato)
Roman Life in France
Your Walking Tour of Nimes
The downtown area of the Roman city of Nimes is still alive. The most historic Roman monuments are within walking distance. To reach Les Jardin de la Fontaine, you might want to hop on a local bus. Visit the Temple de Diane while you are there. If you climb up to the highest levels of the terraced stairway, through more gardens, you will reach the park-like area of Mont Cavalier. Further up the hill is the Tour Magne. It’s a hike to reach the tower, but it’s worth it if you want a view of the city from all directions. Take along plenty of water and, perhaps, a snack so that you can stop and enjoy the view along the way.
Historic area of Nimes
Step by step guide
Nimes can be reached by train, bus and car. The train station (GARE) is in the center of the historic area. Regional buses stop behind the train station as well. From the station, a pedestrian promenade leads straight from the station to the amphitheater.
The Gare
Promenade in front of the Gare
Visitors’ center
Park at any one of the downtown parking lots. Just follow the blue P signs. Some of the parking is outside and some in a garage. When I visit Nimes I park at the Marché (city market) that is outlined in purple on the map because it is so close to the Maison Carrée.
Start your tour at the Maison Carrée. A 20-minute film runs every 30 minutes during tourist season. It’s excellent and it gives you an overview of the history of Nimes.You can buy combination tickets that give you admission to the film, the amphitheater and the Tour Magne.
Walk to the Arèna (amphitheater). There are self-guided tours of the amphitheater with headphones and an audio presentation describing the days of gladiators. Stop along the way to the amphitheater, or afterwards, at any of the many cafes and restaurants for a more leisurely visit.
Walk past the Porte d’Auguste to view a part of the fortification that protected the ancient city. It’s not a short walk from the amphitheater, but it’s on the way to your next stop.
Les Jardin de la Fontaine is a “modern” part of Nimes that has a rich Roman background. It was built in the 18th century atop the ruins of Roman baths (thermal). You can stroll for hours in the garden enjoying the fountains, canals and seasonal plantings.
Tour Magne is your last stop. The tower is open for tourists (check the schedule) to wander through inside. A very narrow, spiral stairway leads to a viewing area where you can see the city of Nimes from all angles.
Stairway inside the Tower Magne that leads to the viewing area at the top
View of Nimes from atop Tower Magne
Here’s another reason why you must see Nimes
Nimes blends the “new” with the “ancient”. A modern world among ancient Roman buildings.The Amphitheatre, for example, is the entertainment center used for rock concerts and other popular musical events.
Times amphitheater is home for huge music events
Roman history reenactments, with all the pomp and ceremony, are staged in the Nimes amphitheater each year.
Amphitheater in Nimes
Then there are the Ferias or bull fights in the amphitheater. The events are popular in the south of France still today and draw crowds for the weekend events.
Regardless of the time of year you visit Nimes, there’s a party going on.
Sète may be a small town on the French Mediterranean coast but it hits above its weight in the gastronomic arena. Home of the most sought after oysters in France, Sete is known for these specialties: the famous octopus pie (tielle), red labelled gourmet fish soup (Azais Polito ), and hearty macaronade (macaroni and sausages). Sete has a sweet tooth, too.
Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France knows Sete like the back of her hand. She’s here to tell us about sweet treats in Sete that are sought after in specialty stores from Paris to China.
The Sètois are proud of their home-grown biscuits, the Zezette and the Navette. Outsiders may think the two biscuits are the same, but those in the know beg to differ. So how do you tell a Navette from a Zezette?
The “ Navette”
Some say that the small hollow slit on top suggests a navette – a “shuttle” in French, or perhaps, a shuttle boat. These little boats, or Les ‘Navettes Cettoises’, were launched by the artisan Biscuiterie Pouget in 1913.
To this day the original machinery, including the oven, are in daily use. To be more exact, the machinery is still operated by the apprentice, Jean-Marie Fabre, who took over the business after Mr. Pouget. If you time your visit right you’ll see how a Navette is made.
The original recipe usually includes orange flower but other flavors are now available: anis, lemon, vanilla and cinnamon. Biscuiterie Pouget also bakes equally delicious madeleines and fresh macarons in the store – the owners are extremely welcoming and will be happy to let you sample their wares.
Sete has a sweet tooth
The Zezette
Ooh la la, sounds exotic – so what puts the zing in the Zezette? La Zezette differs from La Navette inasmuch as it has a flat top and contains the local Muscat wine. Gaston Bentata, nostalgic for his mother’s cooking and North African roots, started baking these cookies in the late 1970s. In 1994 he commercialised them and in 1995 he formed his business, La Belle Époque. You’ll find the products in major outlets not only throughout France but in the UK, China, Belgium and Germany.
To learn more about zezettes (and practice your French!) check out this mouth-watering video.
Not only is the nearby town of Balaruc-les-Bains famous for La Cure (the cure) in its thermal spa, but also for La Cure Gourmande (the Gourmet Cure). This artisan biscuit maker founded in 1989 is a real success story of ‘local boys made good’ on an international scale. You’ll find navettes, madeleines, sweets, biscuits and chocolates in the company’s distinctive colourful stores in 60 countries (Asia, North America, Middle East and Europe) as well as its flagship store in Paris’ Charles de Gaulle/Roissy airport.
All products in La Cure Gourmande are homemade in the south of France in a factory converted from old train station. The sweets are attractively packaged to ‘revive old-fashion and traditional presentation from the beginning of the last century’. Everything is designed to entice: the colours, the presentation, and the packaging.
All of the boutiques have the same furniture “made in France” the same candy boxes “made in France” Produce is seasonal (fruit cakes). Ingredients are local. For instance the sea salt from the Camargue is used to make the toffees.
The founder’s daughter is pictured on in the company’s visuals. She is now a 19-year-old student who found a job last summer …. at the production facility.
Plan for a guided tour of the production facility the next time you’re in Sete.
For someone who had never spent much time in Marseille, now I’m loving it! I jumped at the chance to join a cooking class in Marseille with Gilles Conchy of Provence Gourmet. Read on and you’ll see why …
Marseille is a city of wide, busy streets and tight alleys. High end fashions and ethnic robes. Elegant eateries and takeout pizzas. It’s everything you might expect from France’s second largest city, plus a whole lot more. For my return visit to Marseille, I was excited to see it again, especially Les Vieux Port, the Saturday fish market and an inside view of a true “Marseillese” apartment. An invitation from Gilles Conchy to attend a cooking class in Marseille fit the bill in every way.
Cooking Class in Marseille
Gilles arranged for me and his two guests from Toronto to meet him on Saturday morning at the Tourist Office. That meant I needed to stay overnight in Marseille for the next morning’s 9:30 am start. What a pity … lol! I made the most of it by stopping by my new favorite restaurant, Brasserie on Le Vieux Port (OM Cafe), for a seafood medley plancha-style.
Le Vieux Port Fish Market
When Gilles met us, we headed right away for the fish market at the port. As colorful as it was, the fish market was a bit disappointing in that there were so few fishermen around selling their catch. Gilles says there are only 20 fishermen in Marseille now who sell at the market — a result of overfishingin the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, the catch of “rockfish” for the fish soup starter on our menu was easy to find. Watch the video and imagine you’re along with us at the fish market in Marseille!
Cooking Class in Marseille
Fresh Market
After our outing at the fish market, we were off to the “fresh market” in Marseille — vegetables, cheese and more.
Cherries and asparagus were in season, so the stalls were filled with the luscious picks from local farmers.
After our stop at the fresh market, then off to the butcher for fresh ground meats.
Onto the wine store for Gilles’ favorite picks from Provence.
Next, onto the lovely apartment in downtown where Gilles conducts his Marseille cooking classes. It’s the home of his charming mother, a true Marseillaise who often helps as his sous chef.
Cooking Class in Marseille
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
Now … what we were waiting for. The cooking lessons — and the scrumptious meal to follow.
Our Menu
Fish Soup (the base for Bouillabaisse)
Petits Farçis
Clafoutis aux Cerises with Raspberry Creme
Assorted Cheeses
Wine
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How To Make the Perfect Aioli
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
A perfect day ended with the perfect meal.
Thanks to Gilles, his Mom and my new Canadian friends, Louise and Jerry, for a truly unique, wonderful experience.
Cooking class in Marseille
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
Plan your day with the Provence Gourmet. Classes are offered in Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The intimate cooking experience will give you a true taste of Provence. Authentic, classic menus are prepared in Gilles’ charming Provençal home in Marseille, or at his 12-acre countryside home near Saint- Rémy.
Friends, I’m re-posting this because I feel it is so important for us to remember June 10, 1944. Thank you for indulging my passion for freedom, compassion and world peace.
Oradour-sur-Glane
Remember Oradour-sur-Glane, June 10, 1944.
Today I’m going to take a giant leap into a place I don’t take you very often. My “real” life and passions.
Since becoming the “Barefoot Blogger” it seems I’ve created a fantasy person. Sometimes I don’t recognise her myself. Here in Barefoot Blogger’s world, life is beautiful. Travel, fun and friends. Yes, that’s all true. What isn’t revealed, though, is the fact that living in Europe has opened my heart and mind in more ways imaginable: empathy, love and fear. Having never lived in a country that, for centuries, was under siege of war, I now see the ravages of war around me. I hear the stories. I acknowledge the pain. While I feel quite safe and content in my little “tower” in Uzes, I’m connected to the world through the same means of communications as you are. Along with the many good things, awful things are happening around us. Unimaginable things.
That’s why I am sharing my visit to Oradour with you — a village that won’t appear in travel magazines — but it is important. I stopped there on the way back from the Loire Valley. By writing this post about Oradour, I want to remind myself and you, my friends, that history seems to repeat itself … if we allow it.
Back in time
On June 6, 1944 Operation Neptune, known as the “D-Day”, took place on the French beaches of Normandy beginning the liberation of German-occupied northwestern Europe. While the Allies had a foothold in Europe that would lead to the end of the War, the invasion set madness into motion in other parts of France. Oradour-sur-Glane, a small town near Limoges suffered one of the worse examples of the brutality of the German Army.
Here is an account of the events:
“On 10 June, Diekmann’s battalion sealed off Oradour-sur-Glane and ordered all the inhabitants – and anyone who happened to be in or near the town – to assemble in the village square to have their identity papers examined. The SS also arrested six people who did not live in the village but merely happened to be riding their bicycles through there when the SS unit arrived.
The women and children were locked in the church and the village was looted. The men were led to six barns and sheds, where machine guns were already in place.
According to a survivor’s account, the SS men then began shooting, aiming for their legs. When victims were unable to move, the Nazis covered them with fuel and set the barns on fire. Only six men managed to escape. One of them was later seen walking down a road and was shot dead. In all, 190 Frenchmen died.
The SS men next proceeded to the church and placed an incendiary device beside it. When it was ignited, women and children tried to escape through the doors and windows, only to be met with machine-gun fire. 247 women and 205 children died in the brutal attack. The only survivor was 47-year-old Marguerite Rouffanche. She escaped through a rear sacristy window, followed by a young woman and child.[3] All three were shot, two of them fatally. Rouffanche crawled to some pea bushes and remained hidden overnight until she was found and rescued the next morning. About twenty villagers had fled Oradour-sur-Glane as soon as the SS unit had appeared. That night, the village was partially razed.
Several days later, the survivors were allowed to bury the 642 dead inhabitants of Oradour-sur-Glane who had been killed in just a few hours.”
Remember Oradour-sur-Glane, June 10, 1944.
General Charles de Gaulle visited the ruined village of Oradour after the war. He declared the village — site of one of the largest massacres in France during World War II — a memorial to the cruelty of the German occupation and deemed that it never should be rebuilt. A new village carrying the name was built after the war northwest of the site. Today a memorial museum stands at the entrance to the martyred village, dedicated by French president Jacques Chirac in 1999.
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Down this road, on a summer day in 1944 … The soldiers came. Nobody lives here now. They stayed only a few hours. When they had gone, a community which had lived for a thousand years … was dead.
Excerpt from the British documentary, The World at War, narrated by Laurence Olivier
Remember Oradour-sur-Glane, June 10, 1944.
Personal revelation
I literally wept when I reached the ruins of the children’s school and read the names — “Binet” — so similar to my own. Farther down the road, my spirits lifted as I saw a young family in the distance.
Seeing them from behind, I found myself running up to stop them in the road. It was a sunny, holiday weekend. Here was a family visiting Oradour when others would be at Disneyland. I had to find out why they were there. The lovely young woman told me her family had been among those who died during the massacre. Her grandmother brought her to Oradour when she was the age of her children. She wanted them to see the same, to feel the same, to remember the past.
After a week-long visit to Dordogne I’d like to pass on some personal thoughts that could be helpful to you planning a trip. A travel guide to Dordogne, of sorts, that gives some tips on do’s and don’ts we discovered.
Planning Hints and Faux-Pas
Narrow it down – Dordogne is a big place — the third largest department in metropolitan France. If you have only a few days to visit, choose your route with the intention to visit only one, maybe two, places each day. Our first two days we made too many stops, then we slowed down our pace. You don’t want to return from your trip and it’s all a “blur.”
Map of Dordogne region
“Home” base – Changing places to stay every night is exhausting for me. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. If possible, find a central location and “camp out” there for two or three nights. Our mistake on this trip was that our home base was in the middle of nowhere. Even finding a place for a meal was a problem. So stay in a village where you can buy a glass of wine, or two, when you arrive back in the evening.
A place to relax – Your “home” base is probably not going to be your “place to relax.” You’ll be busy traveling from there to hither and beyond. Choose to spend a couple of nights where you can “chill”. Make it towards the end of your holiday, perhaps, so you’ll be relaxed when you return home. Choose something special — a little village by the river, or at a chateau.
Chateau Mercues
Travel guide to Dordogne
Bad weather alternatives – As much as you hate to think about bad weather during your holiday, it happens. We were fortunate to be close to Lascaux, so we spent our one day of rain underground, in a cave. No caves? Shopping and wine tastings are great alternatives, too!
Painted caves at Lascaux
Time to dine – One thing you don’t want to miss about the Dordogne is the food. If you wish to enjoy the canard, the fois gras, the cheese, the wine …. remember you’re in France. In some towns and villages, restaurants serve dinner starting a 7:00 pm. During heavy tourist season you may be more fortunate to find businesses that have longer hours, but don’t always count on it. Plan your day accordingly. Stock up on cheese, bread, wine and fruit that you can enjoy in your room — just in case. Take plenty of water bottles that you can fill whenever you stop.
Photo opportunities – As much as I hate to admit it, getting up early in the morning is a good idea if you want great photos from the Dordogne. My friend, Julie, has some fabulous sunrise shots. For example, the best shots of Rocamadore are taken early in the morning, before the sun shines right into your camera lens. Bring several camera batteries, chargers and, if possible, more than one camera. My iPhone, iPad and camera were all put into action at one time or another.
This photo of Rocamadore could have been so much better!
Travel guide to Dordogne
Driving hazards
If you plan to drive through the Dordogne — which is fabulous, by the way — be prepared for “interesting” road conditions along the way.
Maps vs. GPS – I love my Garmin GPS. However … there were a few places we wanted to go that Garmin didn’t recognise. That’s because we didn’t program it before we left on the trip. Oh dear. That’s where my map-reading friend, Julie came in. She had every map of this part of France that’s been printed, I believe. If you want to use a GPS, check the route beforehand.
Curvy roads, one-way roads and bridges – If you think you are used to back road driving, Dordogne is a test to your skills. Roads that lead to some of the most charming places are way off the beaten path. In many cases, you’ll think the road you’re on is a path.
Travel guide to Dordogne
Favorite places
Click on each of the links below to read about my favorite places we visited and view the photos.
After six days in Dordogne with my Colorado friend, it was time for the grand finale. We threw caution to the wind and took our very first hot air balloon ride over the Loire Valley. Visiting Chenonceau no less.
The tour of the Château at Chenonceau is not exactly what you’d expect from a tour of the Dordogne region of France. It’s in the Loire Valley. We drove a long way to get there, but it was worth it in every way — and from every angle.
Visiting Chenonceau
First, a boat ride on the River Cher.
River boat launch at Chenonceaux
River view of the Chateau at Chenonceau
…and if that wasn’t enough…
Balloon over Château Chenonceau
Balloon ride over the Chateau at Chenonceau and the Loire Valley
Balloon over Chateau at Chenonceau and the Loire Valley
My first balloon ride!!!
A toast to Julie and to me for a fun and memorable reunion! Here’s to friends!
May they be with us for a reason, for a season … for a lifetime!
What a day! What a way to end the week traveling and touring in Dordogne. Let’s just say, it ended on a very high note.
My traveling companion and long-lost and found friend from grade school, Julie, and I put some serious miles behind us. We drove over four hours straight from Sarlat to Tours. I’m dropping Julie off at the train station in Tours tomorrow and heading back toward Uzes. Julie’s going on to Paris for a few days before returning to Colorado.
Before we ended our “reunion” tour, we were giving ourselves the last “treat” of our journey. As you may remember, we planned two special treats for the trip. One was an overnight stay and dinner in a chateau. The last we scheduled for today. We ventured into the Loire Valley to see one of the most magical royal chateaus in France. More than that, we experienced the chateau from every angle possible.
Touring Chenonceau
The Château at Chenonceau
Known as the “Ladies Château,” Chenonceau was built in the 16th century on the remains of a 14th century castle and mill belonging to the Marquay family. There are writings, however, that mention the castle and mill as early as the 11th century. Still intact from the Marquay era is the chateau’s well and the Marques tower which was restored in the Renaissance style.
The property is in the Loire Valley and has been inhabited throughout history by the mistress of a King, Queens, heiresses and business tycoons. It is currently owned by a member of the Menier family, famous for their chocolates.
I’ll leave the history and stories of the château for a later post. Today will be a photo tour. A most unusual one, too. I was particularly interested in the “crooks and crannies” of the place since everything else is in hundreds of books.
Day five in the seven-day Dordogne marathon trip with my long-time friend, Julie, was one thing we looked forward to the most– Visit Rocamadour.
The village carved into a hill, Rocamadour, takes at least a half-day to explore. It is recommended you arrive early to catch the best view because it is east-facing. Oh well…today we took our time leaving the hotel and probably enjoyed the visit more because we were rested. There are lots of hills and steps to climb.
Walking tour map of Rocamadour
Walking tour map Rocamadour
Rocamadour
Visit Rocamadour
I’d heard of Rocamadore many times, and seen pictures, I knew little about its history. Did you know the name of the village is really “Roc-Amadore” and it was named for Saint Amadore? Did you know that Saint Amadore was thought by many to be Zacchaeus of the Bible. Did you know a bone of Saint Amadore’s is enshrined at the chapel in Rocamadour?
Relic Bone of Zacchaeus
That’s only the beginning of the tales and legends of the place so many have visited. The eleventh century. Rocamadour is, in fact, a pilgrim’s center.
Aside from being along the trail of Compostella, Rocamadore’s holy relics bring worshippers there to “admire” to “contemplate” and to “pray.”
“Admiring” Rocamodore is easy.
“Contemplating” wasn’t easy with the crowds of people everywhere, even though vacation season is over.
“Praying” is inevitable when you realize the importance of the shrines throughout the village.
Remains of Saint Amadour inside
Almost every town you visit in France has a memorial to their war dead. Rocamadore is no exception. Mostly remembered are the veterans of the “Great War” — World War I
Statue honoring war dead in Rocamadour
Of course, a day in France always means great food. That’s a given. And what’s a meal without a pichet of rose?
Caves, canals and missteps describe day four of the Dordogne seven day adventure.
Overcast and rainy weather changed our planned route for day four of our Dordogne seven day adventure Good thing we are driving. Instead of Rocamadour we headed for the painted cave at Lascaux.
The route to Lascaux from our hotel wasn’t very long so we gave ourselves a little time before setting out. Interestingly, the curvy roads and scenery along part of the way reminded us North Carolina girls of our own Blue Ridge Mountains. Same trees, same rocks and hills. Or so it seemed.
Before reaching Lascaux, we read we were to buy tickets at the tourist office in the nearby town of Montignac. Not so. After stopping there…and a brief visit to an art exhibit in the local church where I came close to buying these handmade items…
Art and craft exhibit in Montignac
…we went to the Lascaux park site for tickets. Or let’s say, we set off to find our way there.
Hint: If you are navigating with a Garmin or other device, shut it off here. Follow the printed road signs to Lascaux. If not, you’ll spend your precious time going in circles.
Dordogne Seven Day Adventure: Lascaux II
Lascaux I is the original, authentic, painted cave found by four boys and their dog in 1940. The cave was closed in 1963 to prevent the drawings being destroyed by human contact — mostly CO2. Lascaux II was opened to the public in 1983 as an exact replica of the original. Lascaux IV, a new, modern park and more exhibits, is under construction. It is supposed to open this year. Hmmm…
Photos were not allowed within the cave, but these photos may give you an idea of the park area and surroundings.
Lascaux
After lunch at a brasserie in Montignac, we dead-headed for Brantôme, mostly driving on a super-highway.
Yes, foie gras again. A Dordogne hamburger, that is, with thin slices of duck breast, too.
Dordogne Seven Day Adventure: Brantome
Oh la la! Step aside, Sarlat, I may like Brantôme best yet! What a beautiful town!
Brantôme
By the time we’d left Montignac, the sun was shining. The perfect setting for Brantôme. The town is straight out of a fairytale, complete with knights in shiny armour.
Brantôme is on an island surrounded by the River Dronne. The centerpiece of the town is the abbey, founded by cave-dwelling monks in the eight century.
The abbey, the caves and the bell-tower, said to be the oldest is France, are must-sees. The carvings in the cave and the tale of the Abbey though the centuries is remarkable. It’s one of my favorite sites along this journey.
Hint: If you plan to have dinner in Brantôme you’ll have to wait until 7 pm.
Back to Sarlat
When we discovered we wouldn’t find a place to eat dinner in Brantôme, and it was after 6pm and a two hour drive back to our hotel, we decided to go straight to the neighborhood restaurant near our hotel.
Arriving back in Marquay, the hotel manager, Joel, gave directions to the cafe …only a few steps away in the village.nAlas, when we arrived, the restaurant was closed. We dragged our hungry selves back to the hotel where Joel had another suggestion.
“Just five minutes down the road,” he said, drawing a map with curved lines and “x’s.”
Back in the car we went …in the dark. By the time we had traveled for ten minutes or so, we knew we had missed the turn to the restaurant. Oh well, Sarlat was five minutes away.
“Stop at the first place that’s open,” we said, almost simultaneously.
The first place was a bar that served pizzas. It appeared to be men-only.
“Never mind” the waiter was gorgeous.
When I told him he looked like a movie star, but I couldn’t remember his name, the handsome man looked puzzled. When I told him the star was married to Penelope Cruz, he said: “Javier Bardem.”
We all burst into laughter.
The black cloud that had gathered over our evening was lifted. And the pizza was delicious.
The “ Navette” 
