Before the Barefoot Blogger ever dreamed of living in France, I longed to sing in a rock band.
No joke. It’s been my suppressed desire to sing in a rock band. That and wanting to live in a ‘hippy’ van on the beach. So when the Bad Girls Groove Bandcame to town while I was visiting Sete, I fell in love with them. They are everything I ever wanted to be … and more! The girls are not only drop-dead gorgeous, but they also have that kind of glamor that’s a flashback to the past.
Revisit the first time I met the Bad Girls’ Groove Band in Sete in 2015…
Bad Girls 2015
And the Bad Girls are a whole lot of Rock n’ Roll!
Bad Girls Groove Band 2015
The weekend of the Saint Louis Festival in Sete, the Bad Girls Groove Band of London ruled the main stage.
Bad Girls Groove Band 2015
Saint Louis Fete in Sete
It’s no wonder!
Here’s a quick visit with the Bad Girls Groove Band in Sete on the main stage and at St. Clair’s. Same time, next year! (Fingers crossed!)
Are Murano and Burano worth a visit while you’re in Venice?
That’s a question I’ll say “yes!” to. Without hesitation.
I loved both of the small island villages that are a short boat ride from Venice. The half-day I spent walking around and taking in the colorful towns of Murano and Burano was a highlight of my holiday with my son.
Murano glass and more …
The vaporetto ride from Venice to the small islands was less than $30 roundtrip. When I arrived in Murano, it was busy, filled with tourists. The town is so tiny that you can easily walk along both sides of the canal, enjoy the scenery and shop for a souvenir piece of Murano glass.
Murano’s history of glassmaking began in the 13th century when artisans from Venice were forced by law to move to the island. The raging fires that often spread through Venice were too often started in glass factories. Once settled in Murano, the glassmakers collectively honed their art and became known as the best in Europe. Murano chandeliers, enameled glass, and beads were sought by the elite. Through the centuries, Murano developed products that defined the industry: clear glass, milk glass, mirrors, and imitation gemstones.
Vaporettos to Murano and Burano start here in Venice
Busy with tourists
One of the many glass shops
Burano, a kaleidoscope
Landing on the boat docks of Burano was like entering the set of a technicolor movie. The pink, green, purple, and yellow houses and buildings made a setting around the narrow canals that only an artist could conceive.
Like its neighbor, Murano, the island of Burano is known for its artisans. Burano lace has been exported throughout Europe and beyond since the 16th century.
Are Murano and Burano worth a visit?
I think so. This video might help you decide … enjoy!
It’s easy to be lost in Venice, a city of incomparable beauty and romance — a place where you’re just one of the millions of tourists who visit each year.
Yes, it’s easy to be lost in Venice. But I mean really lost. Like you don’t know where your traveling companion disappeared to when you hopped on the vaporetto. You don’t have the address of the Airbnb where you stayed, nor the key?And you don’t have a phone with cell service? It wasn’t part of my plan.
To be honest, I didn’t have a plan. A tour of Venice was my son’s idea. We were on our way to spend time with family in Tuscany. Even though Venice isn’t entirely on the way to Tuscany from France, he wanted to see the canal city “before it sinks.” (His words, not mine.)
I was happy to oblige: 1) I was thrilled to be traveling with my adult son. I’d go anywhere. 2) It would be fun to see Venice again after 50 years!
Venice in the ’60s on “Europe on $5-a-Day.”
The problem was, we didn’t have a plan for being separated…or a schedule for the day. Perhaps it was because we’re both solo travelers. When alone, we often “wing it.”
Discover Venice in 2 Days
In spite of being lost from each other, we made good use of our time in Venice. Here is a video of the highlights, including inside the Peggy Guggenheim Museum.
Doge’s Palace and a short slideshow from Pete’s view …
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Lost in Venice
Visit Murano and Burano
You could spend days lost in Venice. It’s all so enchanting. We only hit the highlights: the views, the canals, churches, Saint Mark’s Square, and Peggy Guggenheim Museum. That’s because we wanted to save some time to visit Murano and Burano. The colorful islands were only a short boat ride away. Boy, am I glad we did it. Definitely worth the trip!
Have you ever been lost at CDG Airport (Charles de Gaulle) trying to find your way to the hotel where you’ve reserved a room? I have.
When I head back to the US from Uzés for my family visits, I try to stay at a hotel at CDGthe night before the flight. It’s my way of dealing with travel stress. Until this trip, however, I’ve been lost trying to find the way to the hotel. More stress…
This time I was determined to figure it out. It couldn’t be that hard. Besides, what else was I going to do to spend the 24 hours before my next day flight to Atlanta? So I walked slowly through the train station; I read all the signs; and I took photos along the way. Now, if I forget next visit, hopefully, this will help.
Here we go … from the CDG trains (Gare) to one of these airport hotels: Citizen M, Hilton, Novotel or Ibis (If you’re staying at a CDG hotel other than these, I’m afraid this guide won’t help you.)
Trains arrive at CDG on this lower level. Ride the escalator up to the next level. If you have too many bags for the escalator, walk behind it, and you’ll see signs for the elevator (Ascenseur)
At the top of the escalator
Enter the terminal
You’re here. Now look for the escalator to your left.
Take this escalator up to the level with the big blue display board.
Look at the second sign, the one on the left. It’s showing you the way to the airport shuttle … see close up below.
Airport shuttle sign looks like a little train on a track. Follow the sign and go left here.
Up the escalator
On this level, it gets a little confusing. Relax. Look to your right for the hallway with signs that have the little train on the track. That’s the way to the airport shuttle.
Down again
You’ve made it to the shuttle. But there are two tracks … and everyone’s in a hurry…which way to go??? Here’s a little secret … you can’t go the wrong way!! Both shuttles go back and forth along the same route.
If you go the wrong way, sit back and relax. You’ll get to the right stop… Roissypôle.
You’re almost there! But it does continue to be a bit confusing. There’s a lot of construction going on at Roissypôle.
Exit the terminal. An IBIS hotel is right there. For others, look for a sign to the left of where the buses are stationed.
Hotel sign!
There it is! My favorite … Citizen M. The Hilton and others are off this same walkway.
Citizen M
At Citizen M, there’s always a friendly, welcoming host to meet you.
A visit to Provence – one of the most visited areas in France – is the second post in the Barefoot Blogger travel series by Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France.
Nancy has lived in the south of France for over 30 years so, I’d say, she knows her way around. When asked “what do you recommend when tourist want to visit Provence?” Nancy gave me her picks below. Now that I’ve visited with Nancy in Sete and we’ve taken a some really fun trips together, I’ve learned to take her advice. In fact, I’m convinced it’s really important to ask an expert to help with your plans. If you have limited time, a bit of sage advice will help you make the most of every day you’re traveling. You’ll see the places you’ve heard about as well as off-the-beaten-path sights you’ve only dreamed about. It’s the best way to sample French life like you’re a local. Need I say more?
Welcome to Provence!
From bustling, edgy Marseille to the red cliffs of Cassis, fragrant lavender fields of the Luberon, Aix-en-Provence’s colorful markets, wine and art … there’s something in Provence to please everyone. No wonder it’s everyone’s favorite.
Founded in 600 BC, Marseille, France’s second largest city, is steeped in history and culture. A good way to start the day in Marseilles is to visit the Basilica of Notre Dame. Perched high above the harbour it offers breathtaking views of the Old Port and the Mediterranean. Those who brave the climb on foot no doubt work up an appetite. And that’s why bouillabaisse – Marseille’s famed dish – was invented. It is almost ‘obligatoire’ with a traditional glass of pastis. There’s more to see so explore the Old Port and don’t miss the iconic MuCEM museum – one reason why Marseille has held the title ‘European Capital of Culture.’
“Anyone who has seen Paris, but hasn’t seen Cassis, hasn’t seen anything,” said the Nobel poet Fredric Mistral. When visitors see the stunningly pretty Roman harbour it’s invariably love at first sight. Two natural monuments protect the town: Cap Canaille, that glows red when the Mistral blows, and the white limestone Calanques (sheltered inlets) that can be admired on a short boat outing. It’s a joy to simply roam the streets, browse the museum, or enjoy fresh seafood with a glass of the local rosé wine.
A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine… and there’s plenty of each in Bandol, where vineyards bask in 3,000 hours of sunshine a year! The resort itself – just a stone’s throw from Marseille and Cassis – is among the oldest and most popular on the coast. Its sandy beaches lured the literary set long before the days of Brigitte Bardot and Saint Tropez. A cliff stroll, a vineyard tour and dining on fresh seafood – to which the fruity and racy rosé wines are a great accompaniment – is on everyone’s list.
Red Wine…The distinguished red wines of Chateauneuf du Pape need no introduction. Masterclasses, food and wine pairing workshops and wine tours of the historic chateaux and vineyards are “must do’s and can be arranged. The vineyards in Chateauneuf du Pape are so cherished that a 1950s decree banned flying saucers from sailing over them! The tiny town itself is sheer magic. Take a walk up the hill to the ruins of the 14th century château – ‘the Pope’s castle’ – and the reward is a view as far as Avignon and its Popes’ Palace. Hungry after that climb? There are many fine restaurants in town serving traditional French cuisine to complement the wines.
Sur le Pont d’Avignon…Standing on the legendary bridge in Avignon provides a good view of Le Palais des Papes,’ (Popes’ Palace), the ancient ramparts and much more of this historic and cultural French city. There’s something for everyone here: museums and galleries; fine dining to please the most exacting palate; and plenty of shopping. During the Avignon Festival in July, live music and theatre fill every street, but the ‘hot ticket’ is a performance in the Popes’ Palace. As for the bridge, the angels inspired a poor shepherd, Benezet, to build it and, convinced of divine intervention, the town’s authorities canonised the shepherd. That’s the legend at least and a popular song was born.
From Ancient Rome to Van Gogh, Gaugin & Picasso … Located on the banks of the Rhone River and known as the ‘gateway to the Camargue,’ Arles is one of the most beautiful cities anywhere in France. The ancient arena, amphitheatre and Roman baths top any visitor’s list, as well as a walk in the footsteps of Van Gogh, Gaugin & Picasso. Talking of Van Gogh, a visit to nearby sunflower fields will brighten anyone’s day.
Lavender Fields Forever ...The very best time to visit the Luberon is July, when the Valensole plateau is awash with lavender and the towns are alive with festivals celebrating everyone’s favourite flower! It’s a sight – and scent – to behold! There’s something here for foodies too – from a range of small bistrots serving the “dish of the day” to the local delicacy “lavender honey.
Here’s Van Gogh Again! Whilst we’re in the area, let’s not miss St. Rémy. Pretty and picturesque, this pocket-size town offers much to do amid its narrow medieval alleyways, shady squares and wonderful architecture – including museums, excellent restaurants, an annual donkey fair and the remains of nearby 2nd century b.c. Glanum. As for Van Gogh, his stay in St. Rémy inspired many masterpieces.
“Ils Sont Beaux.” Set on a rocky plateau, magical Les Baux de Provence offers stunning views of Arles and the Camargue. It is a listed heritage site that has earned the accolade of ‘one of the most beautiful villages in France’, amongst others. What it lacks in size it makes up for with art and cultural activities, one of which is the annual Carrières de Lumières – the most amazing light show we’ve ever seen.
The City of Art and Lights. Beauty, culture and a rich historical heritage exemplify Aix-en-Provence, hometown of Paul Cézanne among other luminaries. Having taken leave of lavender fields and vineyards, here is the opportunity for some serious shopping, sightseeing, not to mention food tours and culinary workshops. . Follow in the footsteps of Cézanne, browse the museums or the famous farmers’ and flower markets or buy that designer outfit in one of the upscale boutiques. There’s never enough time in Aix and you’ll never want to leave!
How’s that for a tour of Provence? What are you waiting for? I can’t wait to see it all myself!
When it’s your first visit to Paris, how do you decide what to do? There are so many ways you can go, things to see in just 3 days in Paris.
Last year this time, I was in Paris celebrating a landmark birthday with one of my best friends from North Carolina. It was her first time in Paris. So, of course, we had to make the rounds of the places she had heard and dreamed about.
The Paris tour gave me a chance to see Notre Dame for the last time in its glory. We did something I’ve never done, too. We rode the elevator all the way to the top of the Eiffel Tower. What a thrill! And what a fascinating story about the tower’s early beginnings.
Did you know the people of Paris disliked the Eiffel Tower when it was built? They thought it was ghastly. Not until it was used as a watchtower during the War did it gain appreciation. Imagine Paris without the Eiffel Tower!
3 Days in Paris
Enjoy!
Happy Birthday, Ricki!
For more about Paris visit these posts on Barefoot Blogger
Canal cruising is more than floating along slowly in a barge. Wine tasting and cruising was the perfect way to spend the day on the Athos Canal du Midi.
The itinerary for our first full day on the Athos Canal du Midibarge took us to the House of Noilly Pratin Marseillan for a wine tasting. The famous vermouth company, owned by Martini & Rossi, was developed by French herbalist Joseph Noilly from Lyon in 1813. Noilly Prat was officially created when Louis Noilly became business partners with his son-in-law, Claudius Prat. The company moved to Marseillan in the 1850s because of its ideal location. Proximity to Marseille enabled easy shipping and the sea spray from the coastal location aided in oxidizing and aging the wine.
Noilly Prat is only a few steps from the Marseillan harbor
Noilly Pratt’s three variants of vermouth is made totally in the factory we visited — except for bottling. Our tour followed each process.
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Wine Tasting and Canal Cruising
Entering the Canal du Midi
From the harbor in Marseillan the Athos canal barge approached the entrance to the Canal du Midi. It wasn’t long before we were at the first of the canal locks we would encounter over the next days of our cruise.
Have you ever heard of “tree sports?” Neither had I. Now trees are where I’d love to hang out. Literally! Time to learn about tree sports in Uzès.
Tree sports in Uzès
One of my favorite places in Uzes is the Vallée de l’Eure. I’ve written about the spring that feeds Pont du Gard, the swans, the STEPS, and various other things that amuse me there.
Nothing has caught me more off guard, however, than to find men hanging in the trees.
The woods are quite thick along the winding trails in the Vallée de l’Eure. Often it is difficult to see more than a few yards ahead. It’s part of the charm of being there. This particular day, when I saw the men in the trees, I had left the apartment with the intention of taking only a short walk.
I had planned to get a lot accomplished that day and the walk was just the first of many things on my “to do” list. It was right after I got to the last of the STEPS that lead down to the park that I heard men talking in the distance. Walking slowly, as usual, because the path is very rocky and uneven, I intentionally headed towards the voices. Of course, I had no idea what they were saying. They were speaking in French. By the time I could hear them more clearly, it was obvious the sounds were coming from the trees.
There they were! Dangling on ropes up in the air. I couldn’t get there fast enough. My curiosity was killing me!
Then I realized I didn’t have my camera!
“What!” says me to myself. “What a great story for my blog: ‘Finding Tarzan in the Jungles of France.'”
Reality hit. I had an appointment in less than an hour. How could I get back to the apartment, grab my camera, run back to the park, take pictures, go back to the apartment, change clothes, then be on my way, and on time? Impossible!
At that moment It was like there was a “good angel” on my right shoulder saying: “Forget it, you’ve made a commitment. You have to forget about this story for your silly blog and get on with your life.” A “bad angel” on my left shoulder was saying: “Forget, Hell! This is a great story. Don’t be stupid.”
So what did I do? I went back for the camera, of course!
Tree sports in Uzès
Tree climbing, or hanging out in trees, is becoming a popular pastime, especially in France. The abundance of lush forests and people looking for new and different ways to spend time outdoors have created a new industry. The young men I met are utility workers for their “real jobs” and they run a business for tourists on the side. From what I could understand, since they spoke little English, and … you know me and my French … their business is quite good. They provide the ropes, harnesses and expertise to get you up into a tree. Plus they set up the tree “boats” where you can spend as much time as you’re willing to pay for to “hang” out.
Sounds like fun to me!!
Prayer of a Tree —————-
To The Wayfarer,
Ye who pass by and would raise your hand against me, harken ere you harm me.
I am the heat of your hearth on the cold winter nights, the friendly shade screening you from the summer sun.
My fruits are refreshing draughts, quenching your thirst as you journey on.
I am the beam which holds your house, the board of your table, the bed on which you lie, and the timbers of your boat.
I am the handle of your hoe, the door of your homestead, the wood of your cradle, the shell of your coffin.
I am the bread of kindness and the flower of beauty.
Ye who pass by, listen to my prayer; harm me not.
–reportedly from the book “Spanish Sunshine” by Elinor Elsner, circa 1925, and was a notice found on a tree in a park in Seville, Spain; posted by Rayon the Boards of the Native Tree Society
To contact the tree sport company website Phytofeel.com
Sign up now for the South of France holiday you’ll never forget.
While the Barefoot Blogger has been distracted with a move to a new apartment in Uzes and NO wifi, my friend and cohort Patricia Sands has been busy gathering our next new best friends for the 2019 South of France Memories You Promised Yourself Tour 2019.
Only 4 Spots Left!!
We’ve done all the trip planning.
The “South of France Memories” tour itinerary was created by one of the top experts in travel in the south of France —Absolutely Southern France. It is designed for all travelers — veterans and novices. Our itinerary includes some of the most visited places in the south of France — and some that are just getting on the travel radar. From the Côte d’Azur to village markets to historic towns to wild life sanctuaries, we’ll experience it all.
Here’s an overview of the destinations for our 2019 women’s tour. It includes 12 days of exploring, touring, eating, drinking and making new friends. For all the facts and cost, click here.
Stroll the seaside Promenade des Anglais in Nice and tour the colorful city
Meander through cobblestone streets of Saint Paul de Vence, filled with history, galleries and charming shops
Discover Eze and the spectacular gardens of Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild
Explore the ancient harbor town Antibes, Patricia’s home away from home
Walk in Cézanne’s footsteps in Aix en Provence
Savor vibrant, trendy Sète and a culinary adventure
Live in Arles among roman treasures, world-renowned architecture and the spirit of Van Gogh
Enjoy a safari to observe the Camargue’s unique flora, fauna and rose-colored salt marshes
Experience market day in St Remy de Provence & the spectacular Carrières de Lumières in les Baux de Provence
Peek into the Barefoot Blogger’s world in Uzés, Pont du Gard
Join harvest time and taste the wine
Life is short.
Sometimes you have to get packing and make memories you promised yourself.
Would you believe? It’s been five years since I started my expat adventure in France. After all this time, I’m as as excited as ever about being here. And not a bit trepidatious at what lies ahead.
Highlights: 5 Years an Expat in France
Feeling at home
My little apartment that’s up 55 steps in a tower across from the Duché in Uzes is just as charming as it was on first sight. I still love it. The fact that it is in the middle of all the activity in Uzés is still a plus.
I love leaning out my window when I hear horses’ hooves clomping around the Place de Duché. Sometimes it’s a horse-drawn cart and driver who take care of the potted flowers in the square. Sometimes it’s a coach filled with tourists visiting the town.
I will say, however, there’s a change in the works. Not a move from Uzés, but a bit of repositioning. A chance to get to know the town from a new perspective. Stay tuned…
Making friends
Living in France is a constant whirl of activities with lots of friends. Some friends are French; others are expats; and some are “regulars” or part time expats who return year after year.
Initially, it wasn’t easy to make friends. Especially since I didn’t speak a word of French. Now that I’ve been here for a while, I’m recognized by locals, in the kindest way, as the “American who still doesn’t speak French.”
Travel, travel and more travel
Living in the south of France has to be the best place ever to see the world. That’s probably not the truth, but it seems so. Coming from the US, where it can take 7 hours to travel from Beaufort, South Carolina to Atlanta, Georgia, it’s amazing how you can get from one country to another in so little time. Easy access to travel by train simplifies things, too.
Beginning the “Memories Tour”
A new adventure started in 2018 — the first of the “South of France Memories You Promised Yourself” tour with my great friend and best-selling author, Patricia Sands. We started a tradition of yearly women’s tours, organized by Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France, my partner in crime and tour planner extraordinaire from Sete. My first ever time tour leading may not have ended up as planned, but along the way I met sixteen new friends I will hold close and in my heart forever. Tour plans for 2019 are ready for you to join. Stay tuned …
Facing my fears
What could be more frightening than having a serious accident while in a “foreign country?” Happily I’m now acquainted with the French healthcare system. There could be no finer anywhere in the world.
Blogging
While I’m aghast how 5 years have flown by, I’m equally amazed I’m still writing and loving the Barefoot Blogger.
To tell you the truth, the “Barefoot Blogger” has taken on a life of her own. The person I write about now is an out-of-body extension of myself. As she fumbles her way through life and travels in and about France, it’s amazing she’s survived without more mishaps.
The best part about blogging is connecting with readers. Some visit Uzès and contact me to meet up. We’re like instant friends.
Loving France
Where can I possibly begin to express how much I’ve grown to love France. From early on I confessed I never imagined spending a lot of time in France, much less living here.
Life in Uzés over the past five years has been like living a dream. The longer I stay the more I’m attached to the rhythm of the town and its people. Coexisting with centuries-old architecture and ancient history has changed me.
Learning French
Surely you are weary hearing how I’ve struggled to learn French. Please don’t count how many times I’ve said: “I’m turning a new leaf. I’m taking French lessons.”
Not to disappoint, I have a new plan for in place for Expat Year #6. Stay tuned…
When the Barefoot Blogger decided to run off to France, I learned the hard way how to do some of the basics: rent a French apartment, open a bank account and obtain a visa. Here are some expat moving tips.
If you’re contemplating a move to France, hopefully some of this will help.
If I can do it, anyone can!
Rental contract
Find someone you know who can understand French legal documents. I lucked out that my son has experience reviewing similar paperwork. He served in the Peace Corps in Cameroon and worked with French banks that use some of the same legalize.
Google Translate is second option. Copy and paste the content into Google Translate. The translation may not be the best, but it can help you with the highlights. Then ask your rental agent in France to go over it with you. You should be able to communicate with your agent by email. (Be sure to get an agent who speaks English!)
Be especially mindful of the charges from the rental agency. I was surprised with the cost of a “honorarium” that was owed to them by both the owner of the apartment and by me — more than the cost of a month’s rent! When I complained about the cost, the agent stated it is the customary way to work with rental agencies in France. To pacify me, he moved my closing date so that the overall price was reduced.
Inspection Prior to moving into your apartment you will be required to make an inspection. It is very important that you go over everything, every cubbyhole, and note any problems on the inspection document. A friend inspected my apartment for me since I was not in France at the time. There was a crack at the bottom of the toilet that wasn’t noted. After I was in the apartment for six months or so, the toilet started leaking. When I called the rental agency to send a plumber, they found I needed a whole new toilet. Since it wasn’t noted on the inspection, guess who ended up paying for it? Me!
Opening a bank account in France is a requirement for renting an apartment. The agent and apartment owner like to have monthly payments set up through a draw on the account.
Fortunately I was told it was easier to open an account in person in France than from the US. Believe me, it’s really a smart thing to do. I opened my account before I left to return to the US to pack for my move. If you speak little or no French, do a little research to find a bank with an English-speaking manager. You’ll be forever glad to have a bank manager in your town to help you with various banking and non-banking issues. (Love Mr. Lamur at LCL in Uzes!)
One item that stopped my progress opening the account was that I had to show proof that IRS taxes are paid in the US. I contacted my tax man in the states. He emailed the cover page from my most recent tax forms.
You must also show proof of residence in France. Use the paperwork from the rental agency as proof.
Don’t ask me how crooks get away with foreign bank accounts! Guess they know all the angles.
Assuming you are moving to France to retire, you must have a “long stay” visato stay in the country longer than 90 days per semester.
Look on the Internet for the French consulate that serves the area where you live. For example, the southeast consulate in Atlanta serves South Carolina. You must have an appointment at the consulate to apply in person for the visa. Appointments are made through an online tool.
When I first checked, there were no appointments available for the next 3 months! So I called the consulate (which they advise NOT to do) and I was lucky enough that someone answered the phone. The lady who answered graciously took my name and promised she would call me when there was a cancellation. I got a call for an appointment in three weeks. But don’t trust your luck. Start out in plenty of time to get an appointment.
There are a number of forms on the French consulate website that must be filled in to accompany your application. The directions on the forms are pretty clear. One very important fact is that they want proof of everything! That includes a rental agreement, French bank account, your financial statement and an airline ticket to France.
Yes, you’ll need to buy a “refundable” ticket for your flight to France — just in case you don’t get all your paperwork approved in time.
For example, I messed up on proof of medical insurance. All the information was there about my coverage but not there was not a statement about services outside the US. I told the interviewer I talked with the insurance company and that I had travel insurance for part of the year. The first 60-days out of the US would be covered by my current health insurance. She wanted to see it in writing from the insurance company.
Getting the letter about the insurance meant I had to stay over in Atlanta an extra day. Lesson learned: don’t be vague about anything.
As you can imagine, I talked about Uzés constantly before I unexpectedly ended my time on the tour. So everyone was geared up to see just what made the place so special. Apparently, they weren’t disappointed.
Let’s read on with Patricia Sands, author and tour leader extraodinaire, and learn about the places the “sensational sixteen” enjoyed in my new hometown, Uzés.
“After our visit to breathtaking Pont du Gard and charming Saint-Quentin-la-Potèrie, our intrepid travellers continued a short distance down the road to the town ofUzès….” (Click here to continue.)
Day 3-5 of the “Memories You Promised Yourself” tour revealed friendships and alliances were forming among the sixteen ladies who joined the Barefoot Blogger and Patricia Sands. We happily made our way through the hot spots on the Côte d’Azur: Grasse, Tourrettes Sur Loup, Saint Paul de Vence, Eze Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and Antibes.
Hot Spots on the Côte d’Azur
From our perfectly located hotel in Nice, the Beau Rivage, each day we jumped on our 20-passenger bus to explore famous towns and vistas near Nice. Our guide, Stephanie, and Rene the driver led the way.
Grasse
Known as the perfume capital of the world, there was no doubt our tour of ladies would love Grasse. The Parfumerie Fragonard was our main stop.
Here we learned the way perfume was made in the eighteenth century and which techniques remain the same today.
Over 6,000 bottles of perfume are produced daily in the Grasse Fragonard factory, along with soaps, lotions, eaux de toilette and other fragrant products.
Smell testing the different florals and scents used in perfume products
Tourrettes Sur Loup
A short distance from Grasse was Tourettes Sur Loup, an artist village of less than 2,000 residents.
It was the perfect place for lunch and a quick look at the artisan shops before heading onto the main attraction for the day, St. Paul de Vence.
St. Paul de Vence
St. Paul de Vence is a small, medieval village on a hill that is bustling with tourists and dozens of tiny shops, art galleries and cafes.
At the entrance to the town is a petanque game square where locals gather and tourists who dare.
St. Paul de Vence was a simple medieval village until a cafe and modest inn was opened by a local resident, Paul Roux, and his wife in the 1920s. The inn attracted many artists who had discovered the area during the time between the world wars, like Matisse, Picasso and Chagall. They stayed at the inn and, as payment for their lodging, they often left behind pieces of their work. The priceless painting are still on the walls of the Colombe d’Or. The hotel and the town are now world famous for art and galleries.
Hot Spots on the Côte d’Azur
Eze
Memories Tour Day 4 morning was free for all to rest, shop, visit the Chagall or Matisse Museum, or for more sightseeing.
After lunch we were off to the village of Eze.
Riding by bus along the Moyenne Corniche, northeast of Nice, the views of the Riviera coastline became more dramatic the higher we climbed.
In Eze we continued to climb. Not by bus but by foot. We determined the town with its steep hills was meant for serious walkers.
Fortunately there were plenty of shops to browse through when we needed to catch out breaths.
The highlight of the visit was the Exotic Garden located at the top of the village a mere 429 meters above the Mediterranean Sea.
While walking along the landscaped paths of succulent plants, the views of the sea were breathtaking.
Leaving Eze we passed through Beaulieu and Villefranche-sur-Mer. Real estate along this stretch of the Riviera, to Our next stop, St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat is among the highest priced in the world. Homes of celebrities and billionaires dot the hills and seascape.
Villa Rothschild
The elegant mansion looming high above the Mediterranean in St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat was the next stop on tour of the high road of the Riviera — Villa Rothschild.
Built by Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild, wife of banker Baron Maurice de Ephrussi, the rose-colored villa is in the image of a Italian palazzo.
With its priceless antiques, art and porcelain collections, the interior of the villa is stunning.
The gardens, however, are truly magical. Both formal and meandering, they were strategically designed to enhance the best views of the sea and the villa.
Hot spots on the Côte d’Azur
A water show set to music was all it took for me to escape momentarily into my fantasyland. My life as a baroness on the Riviera.
Hot Spots on the Côte d’Azur
Antibes
Day 5: Readers of Patricia’s “Love in Provence” book series were especially excited about the Antibes part of our tour. Here they could envision Kat meeting Phillippe at the colorful Provençal market in the center of town.
Antibes didn’t disappoint the Barefoot Blogger even though this was my fifth visit.
The scenery and conviviality of the town are so uplifting.
For sure, the Memories Tour gals were taking it all in
Hot Spots on the Côte d’Azur
Just a little drama…
To prove there is always a bit of drama wherever the Barefoot Blogger roams, one evening before dinner we lost one of our travelers. In the hotel. In the elevator.
A power outage that struck the hotel just prior to our meet-up in the lobby had trapped someone in the elevator. Sure enough, when we did our attendance count, Margaret was missing.
Never fear. The nice Nice pompiers saved the day!
Margaret was such a good sport. The firemen loved her!
Stay tuned …
South of France Memories You Promised Yourself Tour 2018 with the Barefoot Blogger and Best Seller Author Patricia Sands
Pézenas is a small town that reminds many people of Uzès. In fact, when some expats are choosing a place to locate, it seems to be a toss-up between the two. Read on for a reason you’ll love Pézenas!
#1 Reason To Love Pézenas
Saturday Market
Although the Saturday Market in Uzès has won awards and acclaim as one of the best markets in France, the market in Pézenas isn’t far behind.
#2
Reason To Love Pézenas
One of the “most beautiful towns” in Languedoc
Pézenas, is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in the Languedoc-Roussilon area of France. Once the political center of the États du Languedoc and the home of Parliament, the consul’s palace (Hôtel des Consuls) stands on one of the main squares (Place Gambetta). On market day the palace is surrounded by shoppers and tourists.
Hôtel des Consuls (Consuls’ Palace) on Place Gambetta in Pêzenas
#3 Reason To Love Pézenas
Moliere Festival
The French Ministry of Culture designated Pézenas a Protected Area (Secteur sauvegardé) because of its over 30 historical monuments, including a monument dedicated to the French playwright, Moliere.
Apparently Moliere spent only a few days in Pézenas where he put on several of his less important theater works. Nevertheless, the town honors his contributions to the arts in France. Remember Moliere from the movie “Mozart.” If you’re like me, you’d like to know more.
#4 Reason To Love Pézenas
Marianne, a symbol of the French Republic\
Statue of Marianne in Pezenas
She stands atop a column which is surrounded by cherubs riding dolphins. The column is inscribed with the motto of France: “Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité.” The statue in the Cours Jean-Jaurès. was molded in 1880. The fountain was built in 1887.
“Marianne”, a symbol of the French nation, standing in Pezenas
#5 Reason To Love Pézenas
Architecture in Pezenas
During my short half-day stay in Pézenas, I was struck by the awesome architecture in the town. I understand most of the large building were hotels or homes. The French and other Europeans of long ago loved to stay or visit in Pézenas because of its beauty, culture and proximity to the Mediterranean. Many of the town’s structures qualify for the “Inventaire des Monuments Historiques” for their “porte à colonne et ponton” or “entrance with columns and carvings.”
Street scene on market day in Pezenas
#6 Reason To Love Pézenas
Food!
For a solo female traveler, one of the things I often judge about a place is how comfortable I feel having a meal alone. In Pézenas, the scenery around the eateries — especially those in the city squares — is enough to keep you company. Here’s my view at lunchtime.
Busy sidewalks and Saturday Markets
View from my lunch spot in Pezenas
The Plat Du Jour
Plat du Jour in Pezenas
Later, after spending more time than I should visiting with the designer at a fabulous jewelry shop …
… here’s the view when I stopped for an afternoon refreshment.
Cafe in Pezenas
Pézenas is a MUST GO BACK TO! place. There’s so much more to see and do. Stay tuned for more …
There’s a party going on every Tuesday night, right under my window. Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes. I’m not complaining. It’s vendors with jewelry, leather goods, wine and, of course, there are musicians.
Nothing compares with the Saturday or Wednesday markets in Uzes. Yet these Tuesday events, clearly for tourists, have the added attraction of a nighttime ambiance in the Place des Duche.
Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
Zumba in Uzes
The event runs from 6-11pm and starts off with Zumba.The Zumba sessions are led by a local class and visitors are welcome to join in.
Soon the marketplace is busy with people. By night it’s loud and filled with music and happy sounds.
Later, musicians take center stage at the Mairie (town hall).
There is truly something for everyone to enjoy.
Candy and nougat
Jewelry vendors with handmade necklaces, bracelets and more
Crepes made on the spot
Crepe making with either Nutella or the buttery sugar variety are favorites.
Silver jewelers add initials to bracelets and necklaces
Balloons are for kids here in France, too.
Dogs are well-behaved
Handmade head dresses are modeled by beautiful young women.
Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
No matter how I try to stay in on Tuesday nights, I just can’t miss Les Mardes Nocturnes D’Uzes. Who could blame me?
Scarves on sale blow in the summer night’s breeze.
Ruins of the city walls look over Les Mardis Nocturnes d’Uzes
Sète may be a small town on the French Mediterranean coast but it hits above its weight in the gastronomic arena. Home of the most sought after oysters in France, Sete is known for these specialties: the famous octopus pie (tielle), red labelled gourmet fish soup (Azais Polito ), and hearty macaronade (macaroni and sausages). Sete has a sweet tooth, too.
Nancy McGee of Absolutely Southern France knows Sete like the back of her hand. She’s here to tell us about sweet treats in Sete that are sought after in specialty stores from Paris to China.
The Sètois are proud of their home-grown biscuits, the Zezette and the Navette. Outsiders may think the two biscuits are the same, but those in the know beg to differ. So how do you tell a Navette from a Zezette?
The “ Navette”
Some say that the small hollow slit on top suggests a navette – a “shuttle” in French, or perhaps, a shuttle boat. These little boats, or Les ‘Navettes Cettoises’, were launched by the artisan Biscuiterie Pouget in 1913.
To this day the original machinery, including the oven, are in daily use. To be more exact, the machinery is still operated by the apprentice, Jean-Marie Fabre, who took over the business after Mr. Pouget. If you time your visit right you’ll see how a Navette is made.
The original recipe usually includes orange flower but other flavors are now available: anis, lemon, vanilla and cinnamon. Biscuiterie Pouget also bakes equally delicious madeleines and fresh macarons in the store – the owners are extremely welcoming and will be happy to let you sample their wares.
Sete has a sweet tooth
The Zezette
Ooh la la, sounds exotic – so what puts the zing in the Zezette? La Zezette differs from La Navette inasmuch as it has a flat top and contains the local Muscat wine. Gaston Bentata, nostalgic for his mother’s cooking and North African roots, started baking these cookies in the late 1970s. In 1994 he commercialised them and in 1995 he formed his business, La Belle Époque. You’ll find the products in major outlets not only throughout France but in the UK, China, Belgium and Germany.
To learn more about zezettes (and practice your French!) check out this mouth-watering video.
Not only is the nearby town of Balaruc-les-Bains famous for La Cure (the cure) in its thermal spa, but also for La Cure Gourmande (the Gourmet Cure). This artisan biscuit maker founded in 1989 is a real success story of ‘local boys made good’ on an international scale. You’ll find navettes, madeleines, sweets, biscuits and chocolates in the company’s distinctive colourful stores in 60 countries (Asia, North America, Middle East and Europe) as well as its flagship store in Paris’ Charles de Gaulle/Roissy airport.
All products in La Cure Gourmande are homemade in the south of France in a factory converted from old train station. The sweets are attractively packaged to ‘revive old-fashion and traditional presentation from the beginning of the last century’. Everything is designed to entice: the colours, the presentation, and the packaging.
All of the boutiques have the same furniture “made in France” the same candy boxes “made in France” Produce is seasonal (fruit cakes). Ingredients are local. For instance the sea salt from the Camargue is used to make the toffees.
The founder’s daughter is pictured on in the company’s visuals. She is now a 19-year-old student who found a job last summer …. at the production facility.
Plan for a guided tour of the production facility the next time you’re in Sete.
For someone who had never spent much time in Marseille, now I’m loving it! I jumped at the chance to join a cooking class in Marseille with Gilles Conchy of Provence Gourmet. Read on and you’ll see why …
Marseille is a city of wide, busy streets and tight alleys. High end fashions and ethnic robes. Elegant eateries and takeout pizzas. It’s everything you might expect from France’s second largest city, plus a whole lot more. For my return visit to Marseille, I was excited to see it again, especially Les Vieux Port, the Saturday fish market and an inside view of a true “Marseillese” apartment. An invitation from Gilles Conchy to attend a cooking class in Marseille fit the bill in every way.
Cooking Class in Marseille
Gilles arranged for me and his two guests from Toronto to meet him on Saturday morning at the Tourist Office. That meant I needed to stay overnight in Marseille for the next morning’s 9:30 am start. What a pity … lol! I made the most of it by stopping by my new favorite restaurant, Brasserie on Le Vieux Port (OM Cafe), for a seafood medley plancha-style.
Le Vieux Port Fish Market
When Gilles met us, we headed right away for the fish market at the port. As colorful as it was, the fish market was a bit disappointing in that there were so few fishermen around selling their catch. Gilles says there are only 20 fishermen in Marseille now who sell at the market — a result of overfishingin the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, the catch of “rockfish” for the fish soup starter on our menu was easy to find. Watch the video and imagine you’re along with us at the fish market in Marseille!
Cooking Class in Marseille
Fresh Market
After our outing at the fish market, we were off to the “fresh market” in Marseille — vegetables, cheese and more.
Cherries and asparagus were in season, so the stalls were filled with the luscious picks from local farmers.
After our stop at the fresh market, then off to the butcher for fresh ground meats.
Onto the wine store for Gilles’ favorite picks from Provence.
Next, onto the lovely apartment in downtown where Gilles conducts his Marseille cooking classes. It’s the home of his charming mother, a true Marseillaise who often helps as his sous chef.
Cooking Class in Marseille
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
Now … what we were waiting for. The cooking lessons — and the scrumptious meal to follow.
Our Menu
Fish Soup (the base for Bouillabaisse)
Petits Farçis
Clafoutis aux Cerises with Raspberry Creme
Assorted Cheeses
Wine
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How To Make the Perfect Aioli
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
A perfect day ended with the perfect meal.
Thanks to Gilles, his Mom and my new Canadian friends, Louise and Jerry, for a truly unique, wonderful experience.
Cooking class in Marseille
A Day with the Provence Gourmet
Plan your day with the Provence Gourmet. Classes are offered in Marseille, Aix-en-Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. The intimate cooking experience will give you a true taste of Provence. Authentic, classic menus are prepared in Gilles’ charming Provençal home in Marseille, or at his 12-acre countryside home near Saint- Rémy.
After a week-long visit to Dordogne I’d like to pass on some personal thoughts that could be helpful to you planning a trip. A travel guide to Dordogne, of sorts, that gives some tips on do’s and don’ts we discovered.
Planning Hints and Faux-Pas
Narrow it down – Dordogne is a big place — the third largest department in metropolitan France. If you have only a few days to visit, choose your route with the intention to visit only one, maybe two, places each day. Our first two days we made too many stops, then we slowed down our pace. You don’t want to return from your trip and it’s all a “blur.”
Map of Dordogne region
“Home” base – Changing places to stay every night is exhausting for me. Sometimes it’s unavoidable. If possible, find a central location and “camp out” there for two or three nights. Our mistake on this trip was that our home base was in the middle of nowhere. Even finding a place for a meal was a problem. So stay in a village where you can buy a glass of wine, or two, when you arrive back in the evening.
A place to relax – Your “home” base is probably not going to be your “place to relax.” You’ll be busy traveling from there to hither and beyond. Choose to spend a couple of nights where you can “chill”. Make it towards the end of your holiday, perhaps, so you’ll be relaxed when you return home. Choose something special — a little village by the river, or at a chateau.
Chateau Mercues
Travel guide to Dordogne
Bad weather alternatives – As much as you hate to think about bad weather during your holiday, it happens. We were fortunate to be close to Lascaux, so we spent our one day of rain underground, in a cave. No caves? Shopping and wine tastings are great alternatives, too!
Painted caves at Lascaux
Time to dine – One thing you don’t want to miss about the Dordogne is the food. If you wish to enjoy the canard, the fois gras, the cheese, the wine …. remember you’re in France. In some towns and villages, restaurants serve dinner starting a 7:00 pm. During heavy tourist season you may be more fortunate to find businesses that have longer hours, but don’t always count on it. Plan your day accordingly. Stock up on cheese, bread, wine and fruit that you can enjoy in your room — just in case. Take plenty of water bottles that you can fill whenever you stop.
Photo opportunities – As much as I hate to admit it, getting up early in the morning is a good idea if you want great photos from the Dordogne. My friend, Julie, has some fabulous sunrise shots. For example, the best shots of Rocamadore are taken early in the morning, before the sun shines right into your camera lens. Bring several camera batteries, chargers and, if possible, more than one camera. My iPhone, iPad and camera were all put into action at one time or another.
This photo of Rocamadore could have been so much better!
Travel guide to Dordogne
Driving hazards
If you plan to drive through the Dordogne — which is fabulous, by the way — be prepared for “interesting” road conditions along the way.
Maps vs. GPS – I love my Garmin GPS. However … there were a few places we wanted to go that Garmin didn’t recognise. That’s because we didn’t program it before we left on the trip. Oh dear. That’s where my map-reading friend, Julie came in. She had every map of this part of France that’s been printed, I believe. If you want to use a GPS, check the route beforehand.
Curvy roads, one-way roads and bridges – If you think you are used to back road driving, Dordogne is a test to your skills. Roads that lead to some of the most charming places are way off the beaten path. In many cases, you’ll think the road you’re on is a path.
Travel guide to Dordogne
Favorite places
Click on each of the links below to read about my favorite places we visited and view the photos.
After six days in Dordogne with my Colorado friend, it was time for the grand finale. We threw caution to the wind and took our very first hot air balloon ride over the Loire Valley. Visiting Chenonceau no less.
The tour of the Château at Chenonceau is not exactly what you’d expect from a tour of the Dordogne region of France. It’s in the Loire Valley. We drove a long way to get there, but it was worth it in every way — and from every angle.
Visiting Chenonceau
First, a boat ride on the River Cher.
River boat launch at Chenonceaux
River view of the Chateau at Chenonceau
…and if that wasn’t enough…
Balloon over Château Chenonceau
Balloon ride over the Chateau at Chenonceau and the Loire Valley
Balloon over Chateau at Chenonceau and the Loire Valley
My first balloon ride!!!
A toast to Julie and to me for a fun and memorable reunion! Here’s to friends!
May they be with us for a reason, for a season … for a lifetime!
A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine… and there’s plenty of each in Bandol, where vineyards bask in 3,000 hours of sunshine a year! The resort itself – just a stone’s throw from Marseille and Cassis – is among the oldest and most popular on the coast. Its sandy beaches lured the literary set long before the days of Brigitte Bardot and Saint Tropez. A cliff stroll, a vineyard tour and dining on fresh seafood – to which the fruity and racy rosé wines are a great accompaniment – is on everyone’s list.
Red Wine…The distinguished red wines of Chateauneuf du Pape need no introduction. Masterclasses, food and wine pairing workshops and wine tours of the historic chateaux and vineyards are “must do’s and can be arranged. The vineyards in 
Sur le Pont d’Avignon…Standing on the legendary bridge in 
While I’m aghast how 5 years have flown by, I’m equally amazed I’m still writing and loving 
The “ Navette” 
