Around France

Winter Market in Uzès: It’s Not Quite the Same

Uzès Winter Saturday Market

If you’ve visited the Uzés Saturday Market during tourist season and hate the crowds, you should be here in February. The market is almost the same, minus the throngs of people.

Uzes Saturday MarketThis weekend’s market day was sunny and cold — a crisp 45 degrees when I set out. Clear blue skies and a light wind.


Uzes Saturday Market


While some of my favorite vendors were in place, many shops were shuttered.



A local hangout, Au Suisse d’Alger, was minus its usual outside market watchers. Yet there was a bustle inside where it was warm and cozy.



In the market, an assortment of new produce was proudly displayed and on sale.

Uzes Saturday Market

Market regulars were busy as usual. 


On such a beautiful day, all who could be there were out to enjoy the sunshine and fresh air.


Winter market in Uzes


Winter market in Uzes

Main Street for Uzès Saturday Market

On the main street or Rue Gambetta, there was a marked difference in the number of street vendors. Although there were many more than in earlier days of winter when the weather was in the 30s. 


Winter market in Uzes


Still, you could count on those who gather at the Café de l’Esplanade to be there for coffee and to pick up their fresh oysters. 

Winter market in Uzes


Best of all, store and street inventory were priced to go.


Yes, the 3 pairs of boots are mine! At 15 euros a pair, could I resist?

Uzes Saturday Market

When the sun shines, you can depend on the French to dine outdoors. Market days are a time for friends to gather wherever there’s an open table.



Uzes Saturday Market

Cafes outside with customers


Uzes Saturday Market


Happy happy day! Oh La Vache was open again after a too-long winter break. Their “CocoRico” chicken sandwich was still the same. The best! Grilled chicken, aubergine and melted chèvre. Oh, la la! (Not to mention a pichet (50cl) of rosé – to share, of course!)

Uzés Saturday Market Day

To top off the day, a stop at Gaffier’s Green Grocery was a “must.” Always the same: the freshest produce, wine at excellent prices — and a welcoming smile.  

Uzes Saturday Market


And, oh yes, it’s the only place in town to buy fresh herbs out of season. After a day at the market, my next mission? Gravlax! 


Uzes Saturday Market

Stay tuned …

Uzes Saturday Market

20 replies »

  1. Hi Deborah I have loved reading your blog about Uzes and surrounding beauty spots. I am going to Uzes for a week on Monday 29th May. As when you first went to Uzes, I do not know anybody having never been there before. I would love to meet you and some of the expats in Uzes. Do you meet regularly icertain cafes or restaurants? I would love to make some contacts on this my first solo adventure!! A bientot, I hope! X

    • Congratulations, Mary, on your first solo adventure! Uzes is a perfect place to start. There’s a group of expats who meet for coffee at Bengali each Wednesday at 10am. Send me a note a to let me know when you’re here and I’ll be sure to be there. Wednesday’s are also market days, so you’ll be able to pick up some local fruits and vegetables, cheese, wines … and just about anything you can think of you love to eat from the south of France. See you soon!

  2. Ah, these French markets! We keep coming back for the fresh food, the oh so reasonable prices, and the connection to the farmers and producers who present them so beautifully each week. We just can’t resist the colorful and delectable market food “gallery”.
    It would be great fun to hear some of the “stories” of the farmers who make this happen (hint). I can only imagine what it must take to fill those bins in the back of those wee trucks and travel from village to village and compete with other farmers to sell their wares. I remember while living in Paris as an au pair how argumentative one pair of vegetable sellers became as they tried to convince buyers to stop at their specific booth until my French “mother” informed me the two young men were actually brothers selling produce from the same farm. It was food theatre at its best!

    • Oh, that I could speak and understand French well enough to get in on those local stories! I’m working on it, though. When my son, who speaks perfect French,came to visit the first time, he told me how much I am missing by not hearing the conversations around me. There is a post from a couple of years ago, however, about the farm of one of the market vendors. I definitely need to work on the language and the stories! Thanks for the persuasion..

    • Nice dozed crowd, not s mob as in summer. So pleasant. Yes, I’ll have to buy asparagus next week. This time it was boots I was alter. Thanks for your note, Paula!

  3. This is one of the nicest squares and markets in France. So nice to see it not overrun with tourists. I can’t wait to get back to Provence – five weeks and counting!

    • It’s so different in the winter. Like another place. That’s not to say it’s still the best place to be in France …. maybe the world! Thanks for your note, Libby. Come back soon!

  4. Wonderful post! Makes me want to be on the next plane. Maybe I’ll find a way to stow away in Rich and Paula’s luggage.

    • Elaine, for sure Rich and Paula should bring you along. It’s going to be another fun summer in the Yellow Submarine! Thanks for your note …always appreciated!

  5. Deborah I can hardly wait to be back in France and although the few months here in the USA have been fun with our grand kids, I really miss the town of Uzes and your piece today has got my French and Uzes mouth and mind into getting ready to get back to our Yellow Submarine with all the fun times and good wine and food. Happy to see Oh La Vache is open!!!

  6. I am so missing Uzes! We were there for January and February two winters ago. Sigh! Bisous, Elen

    “If we could read the secret history of our enemies, we would find in each person’s story enough suffering and sorrow there to disarm all hostilities.”

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