Around France

The Cevennes: Saint Jean du Gard

Saint Jean du Gard

I’ve never visited the Cevennes other than in Autumn, but it’s definitely the time and the place to go. Especially on a Tuesday. It’s market day in Saint Jean du Gard.

The mountainous town of Saint Jean du Gard’s history dates back to the twelfth century. It was then that monks from the Abbey of St-Gilles created the settlement on the banks of the Gardon River. With its religious beginnings, Saint Jean du Gard and the surrounding area — the Cévennes — became known as a stronghold for French Protestants (Hugenots).

The citizens of the area, mostly white-shirted Calvinist peasants (Camisards), famously banded together to fight royal control throughout years of religious wars. Many fled to America, England and Switzerland from 1685 into the early 1700’s to avoid ongoing persecution. More recent history of Saint Jean du Gard includes the town’s mention in Robert Lewis Stevenson’s Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes.

San Jean du Gard

Market day in Saint Jean du Gard

Because market days seem to be the focus of my explorations in France, I planned the visit to Saint Jean du Gard on a Tuesday.San Jean du Gard When I arrived in the town, I was surprised to see familiar sights. I had been here before on my trip a few years ago — the same visit when I discovered Uzes.

It was a rainy, overcast day, but that didn’t stop me from wandering around to some of the same places I remembered and exploring new places for photo opportunities. First, there was a stop at the “indoor” market area to see which local products were in season.


Apples, apples, more apples.

Apples everywhere. All varieties of apples and all types of juices. Many are the same as in the States. Only a few I’d never seen before. In addition to the raw apples, there were several versions of apple juice. Not a big fan of fruit juices, I didn’t buy any to bring back with me. Nevertheless, it did make a great photo.


Also in season were chestnuts. While doing some research on Saint Jean du Gard, I learned that chestnut trees were once an important food crop and brought wealth to the area because of the popular “marron” nuts. When planting mulberry trees to “nourish” the silkworm industry became more profitable than harvesting chestnuts, mulberry trees took over much of the landscape. Fortunately, marrons are abundant enough in the markets today for all to continue to enjoy.

Root vegetables and pumpkins

You find pomme de terre (potatoes) on French dinner tables probably more than any other side dish. So it is no surprise there were bushels and baskets of white and red-skinned potatoes in every market, regardless of the season. It’s much harder to find baking potatoes (russet-type) in the markets where I’ve ventured. Certainly, I haven’t seen Outback Steakhouse giant-sized spuds anywhere!

2013-11-05 09.47.14Squashes and pumpkins were on display in time for fall menus, including creamed soups. I prepare squashes like in the South– splitting a butternut squash in half and baking it with butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon. That’s unheard of by anyone I’ve asked here. Instead, they peel and steam the squash, then mash it. The one I have at my house will end up in a creamy soup.

2013-11-05 09.47.21

One vegetable that puzzled me, pictured in the photo on the right, was a giant radish. According to the vendor, it is eaten raw like its tiny kin. Presumably, it’s almost as hot as horseradish. The truth I’ll find out about later.

There were not many varieties of green, leafy vegetables like collards and kale in this market. But there were many types of veggies like endive, shallots, fennel, and leeks. Eggplant (aubergine) is very popular in France and is prepared in many ways. Mesclun, spinach, and other salad greens are on the market annually. Having lived most of my life in the southern states of the US, there are not many vegetables here that I don’t recognize. Some I’m trying for the first time — fennel, for example. Yum!

People watching in Saint Jean du Gard

Sneaking photos of interesting people is another reason I love market days. Saint Jean du Gard has its own special flavor for my spectator sport.

Village views

Now, for some of the best views along the journey. Perhaps this will give you a feel for the town of Saint Jean du Gard. Even on a less-than-beautiful day, it’s a special place to see.

Along with the quaint village streets and scenes, tourists head to Saint Jean du Gard for the steam train ride through the mountainous areas of the Cevennes. The 45-minute roundtrip to Anduze is on my to-do list on a sunnier day. Hikers and outdoors travelers head for this part of the Cévennes and the Cévennes National Park in the summertime in droves. The beauty of the hills and river, speckled with small farms and villages, also attracts photographers and artists.

Did I mention? … there are pottery shops and wine domains everywhere.

More on autumn in the Cevennes:

7 Great Ideas for An Awesome Autumn Weekend Around Uzes 

Halloween Train to the Cevennes

An Autumn Week South of France


8 replies »

  1. This can’t be. Is this the Debbie Bine from Communities in Schools a lifetime ago? I had the pleasure of working with you then and your wonderful inspirational spirit that always shined through. If you recall I grew up in Saudi Arabia and travelling Europe in the summers, so this past summer I took my 17 year old son abroad for the first time. We traveled the Netherlands, Germany, little bitty Luxembourg, Belgium and England. There’s nothing like travel to appreciate the thread of time, and nothing that anyone can relay that resembles the experience itself. Bravo for you for following you dreams. I am sure I will greatly enjoy catching up on your blog.

    • Yes! I remember you, Jasmine! So happy to hear from you… and yes, I’m living in France. After CIS I worked for IBM for 18 years, so it’s been a long time! Cannot believe your son is 17! I’ll be so pleased if you follow my adventures and drop me an email when you can …

  2. That one image of the green sweater coat from a market vendor makes me realize how much I miss that experience! Oh the great things I have bought from all those vendors: one of a kind and never, ever seen in the States! Miss it so much….

    • I agree about the markets. They’re all so different and lively. My favorite time to visit any new place in France. Thanks, June.

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